2002 montero sport 3.5L engine removal
#161
Something that has been bothering me, and I keep going back to is that you have 2 different piston sizes "A" and "B". Then the fact that all your electrical tests are good, you hear air coming out, and its not going into your radiator. The fact the #6 was a different size, and #6 is giving you the misfire, My diagnoses is the wrong size rings for #6. That answers the leak you hear and that can cause a misfire.
Am I way off in my assumption...
Am I way off in my assumption...
I'm also not confident that I was at TDC during my "poor man's leak down test" as there are not TDC marks for each cylinder and suspect that I was not at TDC thus valves may not have been fully seated thus the air leakage heard may have been from an open valve.
You may be on to something, I don't know, but I have zero interest in going back into the engine. That was a 7 month project.
Last edited by larry4406; 07-01-2017 at 06:08 AM.
#162
Thank you!!
I have been searching high and low on anything to do with removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling a Montero engine... and here you are having done a thorough description on MY YEAR! Thanks so much for your thoroughness. You have answered a bunch of my questions, and helped with a bunch of tech specs that I had no way of finding, seeing as NO ONE has the manuals except for the $300 online version. I am in the put back together phase, and am pretty excited to get it going. I am going to take your "wish you had" to heart, and have my heads gone through.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how mine comes out.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how mine comes out.
#163
I have been searching high and low on anything to do with removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling a Montero engine... and here you are having done a thorough description on MY YEAR! Thanks so much for your thoroughness. You have answered a bunch of my questions, and helped with a bunch of tech specs that I had no way of finding, seeing as NO ONE has the manuals except for the $300 online version. I am in the put back together phase, and am pretty excited to get it going. I am going to take your "wish you had" to heart, and have my heads gone through.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how mine comes out.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how mine comes out.
Here is a link to manuals from a 2003. It is an overseas model, but nonetheless free and quite helpful. Wish you the best on your build. Feel free to PM me if you need any additional details.
http://www.pajero4x4.ru/piii/
#164
Larry,
I went back and re-read your post on the cylinder size stamping on the block. What bothers me is the "reversal" of the cylinder order compared to the firing order. I can't figure it out. Normally Left bank (passenger) is cylinders 1-3-5. However, the stamping on the engine says it is 2-4-6. Were you able to resolve that? This makes me wonder if you are getting the misfire on the back cylinder on the driver side instead of the one on the passenger side (not the A size cylinder). That would mean it is a right most coil that fires cylinders 3 and 6.
I went back and re-read your post on the cylinder size stamping on the block. What bothers me is the "reversal" of the cylinder order compared to the firing order. I can't figure it out. Normally Left bank (passenger) is cylinders 1-3-5. However, the stamping on the engine says it is 2-4-6. Were you able to resolve that? This makes me wonder if you are getting the misfire on the back cylinder on the driver side instead of the one on the passenger side (not the A size cylinder). That would mean it is a right most coil that fires cylinders 3 and 6.
#165
Larry,
I went back and re-read your post on the cylinder size stamping on the block. What bothers me is the "reversal" of the cylinder order compared to the firing order. I can't figure it out. Normally Left bank (passenger) is cylinders 1-3-5. However, the stamping on the engine says it is 2-4-6. Were you able to resolve that? This makes me wonder if you are getting the misfire on the back cylinder on the driver side instead of the one on the passenger side (not the A size cylinder). That would mean it is a right most coil that fires cylinders 3 and 6.
I went back and re-read your post on the cylinder size stamping on the block. What bothers me is the "reversal" of the cylinder order compared to the firing order. I can't figure it out. Normally Left bank (passenger) is cylinders 1-3-5. However, the stamping on the engine says it is 2-4-6. Were you able to resolve that? This makes me wonder if you are getting the misfire on the back cylinder on the driver side instead of the one on the passenger side (not the A size cylinder). That would mean it is a right most coil that fires cylinders 3 and 6.
Originally I was convinced that when looking at an open hood facing the windshield, the passenger side was the left bank and drivers side the right just as you have now posted. See the manual excerpt (6G75 3.8L) which originally confused me.
Later, when I found the diagram posted in Post 16, it clearly showed that cylinders 2-4-6 were on the "left" side (drivers) when sitting in the car looking forward. That is when I updated the nomenclature. This is also consistent with the diagram I found in the timing belt section of the manual (posted here).
With the hood open looking at the engine facing the windshield, the coil on the far right side (drivers side) feeds cylinders 3-6 (ie, when sitting in the car, the cylinder on the drivers side closest to the windshield is #6 while one adjacent radiator 2). I have switched the wires (wasted spark scheme) on this coil and I have replaced it as well; no luck.
For ****s and grins, I may swap the wires on the 5/2 coil to see if the rear passenger cylinder (5) is the problem. Then maybe swap the 5/2 coil with the 4/1 coil. From Post 138 the 3/6 coil is unique.
I'm glad I wrote this all down as there is no way in heck I could remember this journey.
On a good note, still being driven near daily.
#166
Yes, I remember going through this Right/Left business way back too. I must have read the same manual as you did I finally figured out that standing in front of the vehicle, looking at the engine, the bank on your left (right bank ) is Bank 1 and has cylinders 1,3 and 5.
What was (still is...) confusing to me, is the post where you deciphered the engine block stampings. Makes me wonder if the stamping marks refer to the Right/Left banks in the same orientation as on the timing image. In that case #6 cylinder is the one closest to the driver. To me it would seem to make much more sense to stamp the cylinder markings as:
X X XX
X X X
indicating simply which holes on the block go where. This way just looking at the stamping you can see what is where regardless which way the block is rotated and where the timing belt might be.
Anyhow, I'm still impressed with your full rebuild. I think trying to swap the coils is a good idea. You can try to just swap the coil (leave the wires as is). Then, if no change - swap the wires too. That way you can eliminate the coil and the wires separately.
What was (still is...) confusing to me, is the post where you deciphered the engine block stampings. Makes me wonder if the stamping marks refer to the Right/Left banks in the same orientation as on the timing image. In that case #6 cylinder is the one closest to the driver. To me it would seem to make much more sense to stamp the cylinder markings as:
X X XX
X X X
indicating simply which holes on the block go where. This way just looking at the stamping you can see what is where regardless which way the block is rotated and where the timing belt might be.
Anyhow, I'm still impressed with your full rebuild. I think trying to swap the coils is a good idea. You can try to just swap the coil (leave the wires as is). Then, if no change - swap the wires too. That way you can eliminate the coil and the wires separately.
#167
This has been the most pain in the a$$ part of the job so far! Removing those seals killed my hands.
#168
So I got in all of my bearings/rings/gaskets in today! Still cleaning the heads, and am wondering if I should remove the camshaft. This engine spun a #2 bearing, but had no other issues. All compressions were good, and engine was strong. What are your thoughts?
#169
The cams are removed out the back of the head after removal of the timing gear and the rear cam seal plates. Reinstalling the timing gears and torquing the bolt to spec was a PIA as I had to rig up some straps to hold the gear while torquing the bolt. I did not have the factory tool to hold the gear. I tried to install a bolt into the head to engage one of the gear spokes but it bent the bolt so don't do this.