Thanks for checking Hunter, very odd how the procedure, which is quite clear, does not work as described. Interesting that you got the same results I did, and I assume yours runs fine without misfire.

Thanks for that link, I have seen and read it several times before, and will attempt to work thru it. My probes for the VOM aren't real good at back stabbing leads. The original poster never reported back in that thread so no real clear ending.

 

I've just thought of something that did not occur to me when I was measuring continuity - have you tried to reverse leads when checking continuity of 4-11, 4-12 and 4-13? I'm wondering if having polarity reversed will prevent electrons from bleeding through the transistor and indicating continuity when no voltage is applied to the base of the transistor?

 

Did not try that as the instructions and diagram were clear on how the meter leads were to be arranged. On continuity I wouldn't think polarity would matter but I will give it a shot in the next couple of days.

 

Found two more links regarding testing of the power transistor unit (PTU) or ignition control module (ICM) which ever name you chose. The links indicate that instead of continuity or no continuity, rather there is a resistance change between with and without voltage application.

This link is a pretty informative read but it is for a Stealth DOHC 6G72 which uses a different PTU/ICM. I think my 3.5L 6G74 uses a MD349207
Stealth 316 - Power Transistor Unit

This link, first post, indicates 6 ohm on working PTU contacts and 10 ohm on non-working PTU contacts, not real clear but I think with voltage applied.
P0300, rough idle, sluggish acceleration, low power--FIXED | Monterosportonline.net Forum

 

This is interesting - in the post on the Stealth 316 diagnostics on the diagram for testing transistors, the "+" "-" polarity is marked on both testing leads and the supplied voltage.
Great links.

 

Hello guys I'm pulling the motor on my Montero, just wanted to know if anyone has a write up on removing the transmission bolts? How did you go about accessing/removing them? Thank you

 

Hector

Posts 118 and 120 of this thread provide some details on the torque converter bolts.

See posts 6 & 7 of the linked thread below for info regarding accessing the torque converter bolts on a 2002 3.5L 6G74
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-47301/

The actual bell housing bolts I was able to access from above and below with various extensions, swivels, and choice words.

 

What happened, after reading 16 pages of GREAT info I'm at a dead end. What happened to cyl #6?. I'm rebuilding our 2000 Montero Endeavor (Long family History) redoing everything.

 

Glad you have enjoyed the read Anthony and I hope it is helpful! Good luck with your project.

Cylinder 6 continues to have a misfire, most noticeable at idle. I have not taken anymore corrective actions to try to address it. Once off idle, engine runs like a dream. It gets my daughter to/from work just fine.

When I last had the plenum off to do a compression check, swap out the injector on cylinder 6, find the sooted plug, etc., I tried to do a crude leak down test. With the plug for cylinder 6 removed, I inserted a rubber hose thru the spark plug hole and watched it rise and fall in an attempt to put it at TDC (balencer is not marked for all the cylinders). Once "at TDC" I took my compression tester, removed the Schrader valve, and connected it to my air compressor to inject air into the "closed cylinder". I could hear air flow, but could not discern whether it was from the intake, the exhaust, or possibly that I was not at true TDC. I did not make any bubbles or gurgling in the radiator. So, not real sure why the compression is down in that cylinder.

The engine does not burn or lose any oil, and the coolant level remains constant so I am happy on these vitals.

In retrospec, I wish I had sent the heads off to a shop for rebuild.

Start a thread on your project!

 

Something that has been bothering me, and I keep going back to is that you have 2 different piston sizes "A" and "B". Then the fact that all your electrical tests are good, you hear air coming out, and its not going into your radiator. The fact the #6 was a different size, and #6 is giving you the misfire, My diagnoses is the wrong size rings for #6. That answers the leak you hear and that can cause a misfire.

Am I way off in my assumption...