2007 2.0 DI-D lost power and stuttering
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 13
2007 2.0 DI-D lost power and stuttering
Hope some of you might be able to help diagnose an issue that's descended upon my trusty Outlander....
I got in it yesterday and found it was well down on power, won't rev and stutters / splutters when driving. Then I pulled up to a junction and the engine died and wouldn't restart...
As luck would have it I had a can of easy start on board and a squirt of this got the engine to run again, whereupon I drove it straight home and parked it, but it was very clear it isn't at all happy. It's guttless, though the turbo is working as you can feel it boost at lower revs, it's just as the revs rise it gets less and less powerful until you're foot to the boards and it's struggling to get to 3k rpm, sputtering and surging as it goes.
It feels like a fuel problem (it's just been serviced with new filters, incl. fuel filter, less that 500 miles ago), but how can I check?
I've read the codes and there were a handful of EGR fault codes related to throttle control and a turbo underboost code. Once cleared, only the EGR throttle control circuit fault returns and reading the live data stream everything appears to be working - you can see it reading air flow, calculating load and making boost etc.
The problem is the car has done a LOT of miles (over 270k) and is undeniably a battered banger.... it's not worth taking it to the garage to spend money on diagnostics, so I'm on my own with this. I've either got to fix it myself or it's off to the crushers....
I'm handy with old cars, but not experienced with these diesels. Right now I'm suspecting either the lift pump has failed or the tandem pump is giving up and I'm simply not getting enough fuel pressure to make power, but I'd welcome all suggestions and any thoughts on how I can check for fueling issues myself.
Or any thoughts on anything else that would cause very low power and the engine to die and not restart.
I got in it yesterday and found it was well down on power, won't rev and stutters / splutters when driving. Then I pulled up to a junction and the engine died and wouldn't restart...
As luck would have it I had a can of easy start on board and a squirt of this got the engine to run again, whereupon I drove it straight home and parked it, but it was very clear it isn't at all happy. It's guttless, though the turbo is working as you can feel it boost at lower revs, it's just as the revs rise it gets less and less powerful until you're foot to the boards and it's struggling to get to 3k rpm, sputtering and surging as it goes.
It feels like a fuel problem (it's just been serviced with new filters, incl. fuel filter, less that 500 miles ago), but how can I check?
I've read the codes and there were a handful of EGR fault codes related to throttle control and a turbo underboost code. Once cleared, only the EGR throttle control circuit fault returns and reading the live data stream everything appears to be working - you can see it reading air flow, calculating load and making boost etc.
The problem is the car has done a LOT of miles (over 270k) and is undeniably a battered banger.... it's not worth taking it to the garage to spend money on diagnostics, so I'm on my own with this. I've either got to fix it myself or it's off to the crushers....
I'm handy with old cars, but not experienced with these diesels. Right now I'm suspecting either the lift pump has failed or the tandem pump is giving up and I'm simply not getting enough fuel pressure to make power, but I'd welcome all suggestions and any thoughts on how I can check for fueling issues myself.
Or any thoughts on anything else that would cause very low power and the engine to die and not restart.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 13
I've established that I'm not getting any lift pump pressure at the fuel filter, so the injection pump is having to suck fuel out of the tank..... which isn't going to help!
The fuel pump fuse is ok and has 12V when the engine is running, but does the fuse feed a relay or feed direct to the fuel pump? If it feeds a relay, which relay is it? I can't find a relay layout anywhere....
The fuel pump fuse is ok and has 12V when the engine is running, but does the fuse feed a relay or feed direct to the fuel pump? If it feeds a relay, which relay is it? I can't find a relay layout anywhere....
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 13
So as not to leave this thread hanging and hopefully help anyone else with similar symptoms (not that I received any help here!), this has been fixed with a new lift pump in the fuel sender cartridge. Having established there was no fuel pressure at the filter, the lift pump was the only real candidate and sure enough, once I'd got in there it was clear the lift pump was completely dead. The pick up filter was filthy dirty too and choked with grime, so it was all cleaned, a new pump installed (the pump that came out was a T1 Automotive 7.50068.01 that cross-references to a 77083e / 43-0162 which are common to pretty much all the VW/Audi group TDI engined cars) and fuel lift pressure restored. It runs nicely again now and all stuttering is gone.
How many more miles the venerable old Outlander has left in it is anyone's guess, but it's not dead yet!
How many more miles the venerable old Outlander has left in it is anyone's guess, but it's not dead yet!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Well, it can be whatever reason for loss of power. Not enough fuel or not enough air (boost pressure) and/or their ratio is not optimal.
Difficult to say without proper diagnostics done.
I have MUT-III tool, I can connect and check target fuel pressure vs actual pressure, the same for air pressure/temperature, etc. MUT3 diagnostic software allows to plot values and compare them, previous versions were allowing to record data while driving (although not anymore for some reason in newer versions and it is impossible to downgrade the FW update in MUT3).
What I did a couple of years ago on my 2.2 DiD from 2013: I've opened the air intake manifold and cleaned it from soot (attaching pictures just to scare you :-) ). As well as the throttle valve was cleaned. I've changed also the hose between intercooler and throttle valve because it was leaking and loss of power and black smoke were noticeable, however I've seen difference on recorded pressure data (see pressure plot) but got no fault codes, and that was strange. Also, EGR system was quite clean, I was expecting the opposite.
Hope it helps, good luck!
Difficult to say without proper diagnostics done.
I have MUT-III tool, I can connect and check target fuel pressure vs actual pressure, the same for air pressure/temperature, etc. MUT3 diagnostic software allows to plot values and compare them, previous versions were allowing to record data while driving (although not anymore for some reason in newer versions and it is impossible to downgrade the FW update in MUT3).
What I did a couple of years ago on my 2.2 DiD from 2013: I've opened the air intake manifold and cleaned it from soot (attaching pictures just to scare you :-) ). As well as the throttle valve was cleaned. I've changed also the hose between intercooler and throttle valve because it was leaking and loss of power and black smoke were noticeable, however I've seen difference on recorded pressure data (see pressure plot) but got no fault codes, and that was strange. Also, EGR system was quite clean, I was expecting the opposite.
Hope it helps, good luck!
Last edited by daem0n; Apr 30, 2025 at 02:46 PM.
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