Hey Guys! New to thread and first post so bear with me.
I own a 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander LS have had it for about 10 months currently has 92000 miles.
When its warm out my car runs like a top no problems at all, when it drops below 45 degree f, the engine starts knocking Really loud and has a harder problem shifting, does anyone know what could be causing this problem?
I changed the oil 2k miles ago and put lucas in it and did not seem to have any effect, have a app. next wednesday to get tranmission fluid replace because almost 100k miles anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks for the Replys!

 

I change my fluid every 45k miles. Mitsubishi recommends every 30k, my local dealership said they drain/fill every 45k. Note: a drain/fill will only remove 2 quarts out of 8. There are posts that describe how you can do this relatively easy yourself. 100k miles is way too long. Also note, this transmission will do some braking for you if you let up on the gas pedal. As the weather cools, the fluid will get thicker and this engine/transmission braking will become more dramatic if the fluid is cold. As it warms up, it will not be as noticeable.

As far as your engine noise...here's what I notice. As mine has aged, I am hearing some clicking/tapping noises that I believe are my lifters tapping just a bit. This clears up when you rev the engine up, which flows more oil and quiets the lifters. Knocking is a little more alarming. so is it tapping/clicking or is it knocking?

 

Ya it sounds like lifter tap but only when it's cold outside and does it through Rev and even when the car warms up. What kind of transmission fluid do I use? And it seems my transmission does it when it's cold or hot out just dosent shift 100 percent smooth shifts take a little longer to get into gear and harder than it should be imo idk if fluid change will help this

 

Here's the clincher you can either use DiaQueen ATF-J2 available at the dealership or DiaQueen ATF-J2 available at the dealership. Amsoil also states they have fluids that are compatible...but price is about the same for something that is "compatible". You will be shocked how smooth it will shift if you get all the old stuff out and get new fluid in.

In a nutshell, ATF change in this is easy. Pull the ATF hose going INTO the cooler just in front of driver front wheel. Start the vehicle and let the fluid "bleed out" into a measurable container. Once it starts to sputter, cut the engine and add that much fluid back in. Empty the measurable container and restart the engine, letting it bleed out again into the measurable container...this time you can stop it when it starts flowing clean fluid. Re-connect your ATF line and add clean fluid back into the transmission. Re-check after a day or so to ensure you are topped off. I used about 8 quarts doing that...which if you buy the fluid and do the work yourself is cheaper than letting the stealership drain&fill 2qts.