Originally Posted by milliesdad

Pads are dragging,causing the rotors and wheels to overheat. pistons werenot pushed back in all he way.On the front, Iuse a c-clamp. There is a tool for rotating the rear pistons back.

Spongy because there is air in the system.

re-do everything.

Originally Posted by Outlaander

A litre should be enough fluid.

First, take full advantage on one of the most useful documents you'll ever own and download the 2011 service manual from this stickied thread:
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...-manual-44458/

In that manual you will see the following about brake bleeding:


Bleeding the brake system is a bone-simple job, but that statement should be qualified with the phrase "under certain conditions".

My wife and I have a garage with a concrete floor, a proper hydraulic jack that can lift each end of the vehicle in turn, ramps, as well as two sets of jack stands. If I were doing this job, I'd first put the vehicle up on two sets of jack stands, remove all four wheels and then begin the "bone simple" bleed job.

You have said that you do not have a garage. Do you by any chance have ramps that you can drive each end of the vehicle up onto? If you don't have even ramps, you'll have to either jack up each wheel in turn using the vehicle's jack, or attempt to bleed without jacking or removing wheels.

It may be possible to do this job without jacking or removing the wheels, but I'm not certain about that. Others may be able to state whether this is possible or not. But you can determine this for yourself by first turning the front wheels all the way to the right. Then, by getting your body in whatever position necessary, examine the caliper on the passenger side and see if you can remove the rubber cover on the bleed screw and get a combination wrench on it. If you can, also determine if you can put a clear plastic tubing on the bleed screw and what the proper ID of that tubing should be to fit snugly.

If you determine that you can do the fronts without lifting the vehicle and removing the wheels, do the same for the backs. The calipers there will be more difficult to get at than the fronts because you can't turn them outward for easier access.

If you can operate the rear bleed screws and get a length of clear plastic tubing on each screw, you can proceed with the job.

If you have to jack each wheel with the vehicle's jack, remove each wheel in turn, bleed the caliper, re-install the wheel and move on to the next, that's a way to proceed, too, but although the actual bleed job is still bone-simple, it's definitely a PIA way to do the job.

There are a few ways that this job can be done properly, but the sequence of bleeding the wheels remains the same.

Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and, if present, remove the little filter in order to fully expose the fluid.

Remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir by using either a turkey baster, large hypodermic syringe or inexpensive manual transfer pump.

WITHOUT shaking the new bottle of fluid, pour some new fluid into the reservoir so that the level is much higher than normal.

I use a two-person method of bleeding brake system. My wife operates the brake pedal and I turn bleed screws.

I first install a length of clear tubing on the bleed screw. I call out to my wife - "push down the pedal and hold it there." As she is holding downward pressure, I loosen the bleed screw and a bunch of fluid shoots out the tube. My wife tells me that the pedal has gone down to the floor. I tell her not to allow the pedal to come up (if she does, air will pull into the caliper through the bleed screw). I then tighten the screw. Then I tell my wife to "pump it up". As she lifts up the pedal, new fluid from the reservoir fills the system. Then she pumps the pedal a couple of times until the pedal "rides high" again. Etc.

We perform this sequence until the fluid coming out of the caliper is the same color as the new fluid. The fluid level in the reservoir has to be checked frequently during this procedure to make sure it does not go too low.

For the first three wheels the fluid level can be adjusted to the top of the fill opening, then adjusted to normal operating level on the last caliper.

We carry out the above procedure on each caliper in the sequence described in the service manual's procedure.

An alternative, slower, one-person method is to fill the reservoir, install the clear tube, open the bleed screw and simply wait for the fluid to drip out until the fluid is as clear as new. Etc. Or install four pieces of tubing on the four calipers and open all the bleed screws and allow them all to drip until all run clear. Keep an eye on the reservoir level and refill as necessary.

Another one-person method that I have never tried is using a tool such as the following:
One-Man Brake Bleeder Kit | Princess Auto
Just follow the instructions included with the kit.

Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by Rebelx2010

Sorry to highjack this thread. Is number 2 the "passenger side?" I called my dealer and they said "left front first, right rear second, right front third and left rear fourth." I have a 2013 outlander sport awc by the way.

Originally Posted by Rebelx2010

Sorry to highjack this thread. Is number 2 the "passenger side?" I called my dealer and they said "left front first, right rear second, right front third and left rear fourth." I have a 2013 outlander sport awc by the way.

Originally Posted by ccernst

Always been told start with the furthest wheel from booster, then work your way forward.