ceramic pads on the outie or stick with semi-metallic
#21
07-04-2013, 08:58 AM
I can't remember if there were clips with them or not. If they did, I don't think I put them in...just used the clips that came with the car.
I thought all front and back were both ceramics...but checked on rockauto, only listing for rears were organics.
i'm sure he has a lift, if so, he won't need to take them off for the lip thing. 2hrs is good.
I thought all front and back were both ceramics...but checked on rockauto, only listing for rears were organics.
i'm sure he has a lift, if so, he won't need to take them off for the lip thing. 2hrs is good.
Did you put wagners on the front and the back? No trouble with either. Some people were complaining about a bad fit, but that was with other models. I'm either going to put these on or just buy the pads at mitsu (not the OEM, but the step down- but still mitsu).
The instructions for the wagners are odd - there are 3 types of grease it is saying to add depending on which type of pad they are. Of course, it didn't come in the box...
#22
07-04-2013, 10:01 AM
IF you have a garage and some very basic tools, you can do both the pad change and brake flush yourself. They are both bone-simple jobs and are perfect candidates for DIY.
If you can't DIY, read no further.
If you can do them yourself, you won't have to pay someone to do the job; you'll be certain that the job is done correctly, and with the savings on labor cost you can buy the OEM pads -- pads that you already know from experience will last another 100,000 km+.
The following images explain the pad replacement. The brake flush can be explained in a few words. If you'd like to give those jobs a try, just say so and I and others will be more than happy to provide some additional information, such as making sure to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before starting pad replacement and frequently checking brake fluid level in the resrvoir when pistons are being pushed in, etc.
If you can't DIY, read no further.
If you can do them yourself, you won't have to pay someone to do the job; you'll be certain that the job is done correctly, and with the savings on labor cost you can buy the OEM pads -- pads that you already know from experience will last another 100,000 km+.
The following images explain the pad replacement. The brake flush can be explained in a few words. If you'd like to give those jobs a try, just say so and I and others will be more than happy to provide some additional information, such as making sure to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before starting pad replacement and frequently checking brake fluid level in the resrvoir when pistons are being pushed in, etc.
#23
07-04-2013, 10:52 AM
IF you have a garage and some very basic tools, you can do both the pad change and brake flush yourself. They are both bone-simple jobs and are perfect candidates for DIY.
If you can't DIY, read no further.
If you can do them yourself, you won't have to pay someone to do the job; you'll be certain that the job is done correctly, and with the savings on labor cost you can buy the OEM pads -- pads that you already know from experience will last another 100,000 km+.
The following images explain the pad replacement. The brake flush can be explained in a few words. If you'd like to give those jobs a try, just say so and I and others will be more than happy to provide some additional information, such as making sure to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before starting pad replacement and frequently checking brake fluid level in the resrvoir when pistons are being pushed in, etc.
If you can't DIY, read no further.
If you can do them yourself, you won't have to pay someone to do the job; you'll be certain that the job is done correctly, and with the savings on labor cost you can buy the OEM pads -- pads that you already know from experience will last another 100,000 km+.
The following images explain the pad replacement. The brake flush can be explained in a few words. If you'd like to give those jobs a try, just say so and I and others will be more than happy to provide some additional information, such as making sure to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before starting pad replacement and frequently checking brake fluid level in the resrvoir when pistons are being pushed in, etc.
Yeah, no garage and unless someone was helping me, no DIY lol.Problem is none of my friends know anything about cars haha (may need to get new friends
)Thanks for the offer. This forum is great for asking for help and explanations.
I may spring for those expensive pads anyway - we'll see.
I'll assume the mechanic knows what he is doing with the brake flush (at least I hope lol). He said something about leting each lin drain and then filling from the topuntil new fluid comes out...something like that.
#24
07-05-2013, 06:58 AM
I was under the impression that these came OEM with ceramic pads. The Wagner pads I put on were ceramic, work well, and inexpensive. My OEM pads lasted 120,000 km and I kept the OEM rotors as there were no reason to replace them. I'm now 88,000 km into my current pads and they still work great.
did you replace the rears pads as well with Wagner thermoquiet? Any idea if they were organic?
You would think trying to find out the OEM brake material would be easy - holy crap. Some say ceramic, some say semi metallic. None say organic lol.
I am at the point where I just might spring stupid amounts of money for the OEM pads. It's hot as ***** out today and I just want to go to a beach but I am stuck in front of a computer basically looking at TPS reports lol
#25
07-08-2013, 10:54 AM
Evidently the rears are organic, I put whatever thermoquiets were available on the rears. Everything fit snug like it was supposed to.
the only grease I add is caliper grease to the slide pins. Little $1 packet at the checkout.
brake line flush is very easy with a vacuum pump. start from furthest tire to closes, suck old fluid out while putting new fluid in reservoir. do not suck air into the line. do one wheel at a time. I'm sure most shops can do that, if not, run away.
the only grease I add is caliper grease to the slide pins. Little $1 packet at the checkout.
brake line flush is very easy with a vacuum pump. start from furthest tire to closes, suck old fluid out while putting new fluid in reservoir. do not suck air into the line. do one wheel at a time. I'm sure most shops can do that, if not, run away.
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