Thanks for posting an update on how it's going.

What year is your vehicle? How many miles or kms does it have on the odometer? What climate do you live in? (If you live in Florida, your AC is going to last for a far shorter period of time than if you live in Alberta, Canada, where I do. We use our AC for, at most, 5 months a year and only from about 10AM to 8PM during those 5 months.)

I ask these questions because we used to have a winter home in Melbourne, FL, where AC is being used for most of daytime and, often, at night. If you want to live happily in FL, vehicle and residential AC is almost a vital necessity. I was told by a local shop specializing in AC work (as they were re-charing our vehicle's AC), that the typical vehicle AC copressor in FL lasts about 5 or 6 years. When I asked why refrigerators and freezers in FL lasted for sometimes decades, I was told that the compressors in those devices do not move around while they are in operation; they remain prefectly stationary. They also said that when the compressor's wear begins to be excessive, before it actually outright fails, its wear particles contaminate and eventually "take out" the condenser and evaporator. Their recommendation was to replace the compressor, proactively, at 5 or 6 years of age, even though it may appear to be operating perfectly, because compressors are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace compared to the whole AC system, which might require you to, as they put it, "re-mortgage your house". (If a western Canadian's vehcle's AC system fails, that person can probably live with the heat for a few months without too much discomfort, but if you're living in FL, you will do just about anything, including going into debt, to keep your vehicle's AC system going.)

Therefore, if I was in your shoes with your dashboard disassembled, evap replaced and seriously considering a potential replacement of the condenser, I'd also be seriously considering proactively replacing the compressor with an aftermarket one, just to be on the safe side when you put everything together and re-install all of the dash. I would not want to have to go through all of what you've gone through again if the compressor fails a few years down the road and "takes out" your evaporator and condenser.

Please keep posting your progress.

(BTW, your thread prompted me to replace our Outlander's cabin (AKA "AC") air filter with an expensive Bosch HEPA filter last Sunday. I want to keep that evaporator as clean as possible! I'm also now seriously considering replacing our vehicle's AC compressor, for the reasons I've already stated. This one supposedly fits our 2010 XLS:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...d=5H0AY5UeJwmH )

 

Ha, my filter was getting pretty bad too, went with the Bosch HEPA filter too. Pretty good product. Got it all back together, sniffer still goes off some in the vent… stuck it in the fan by the filter and it goes off there too, thinking its some sort of false reading some how. Let’s see how long the system holds I guess…

Good call on the compressor. NW Chicago burbs here. I recharged in the fall. Was fine, but when it got warm in the spring the charge lost almost all pressure…

 

Thanks very much for the update. I hope your AC system is not leaking and that you never have to do another thing on your AC system. But, if you do, please update this thread with the latest.

Best of luck to you!

 

Few tips I can think of during this job.

1. Trim removal tool kit helps
2. Need AC gauges and a way to vacuum the system before filling again. If there is pressure in the system, before starting you'll need to take it somewhere to have the gas removed.
3. If you never worked on air bags before you have to pull the color tab up then pull the whole connector out. The tabs are small. I used a very small precision screwdriver tip to pop it up.
4. There's this weird duct below the start button, the duct just pulls out from the dash, also a connector for the temp sensor which needs to be removed from the dash
5. Make sure you remove all wire harnesses connectors from the dash and check to ensure no wire harnesses will snag when you pull the bar forward and downward.
7. To get the evaporator out of the assembly, you have to remove the black foot vent then remove all the surrounding screws, I didn't have to remove any motors, etc. just moved one wire off to the side
8. Don't forget to add coolant when done (I used the OEM super long life blue color fluid), I put little rags in the pipes so it didn't leak during removal of the assembly.
9. Not all things need to be removed, i.e. I remove just the center console front and rear tops parts, nothing below that, i.e. floor bracket, etc.
10. Probably took me about 12-14 hours over the span of a few days. Take some breaks, it helps

Here's the link with the service manual.
[W/M]OUTLANDER(GF#)

Dash Removal steps

1. Steering column upper cover

2. Steering column lower cover

3. Ignition key cover

4. Centre panel assembly

5. Radio and CD player assembly

6. Hazard indicators assembly

7 Heater controller assembly (Refer to GROUP 55 - Heater control unit .)

8. Side air outlet panel assembly

9. Combination meter bezel

10. Bottom cover assembly (driver’s side)

11. Side cover

12. Instrument panel lower <Vehicles with Knee air bag>

13. Centre lower panel assembly

14. Instrument panel lower RH <Vehicles with Knee air bag>

15. Instrument panel lower <Vehicles without Knee air bag>

·. Front floor console assembly (Refer to ).

16. Centre lower box assembly

17. Bottom cover assembly (passenger’s side)

18. Glove box

19. Glove box assembly

20. Ornament panel assembly

· Glove box lamp connector

· Passenger’s (front) air bag module connector connection (Refer to GROUP 52B - Passenger’s (front) air bag module .)

· Front pillar trim (Refer to ).

21. Instrument panel assembly


Center Console Removal steps

· Centre lower panel assembly (Refer to ).

1. Floor console side cover

2. Floor console bracket front

· Rear floor console assembly (Refer to ).

· Selector lever **** (Refer to GROUP 23A - Transmission Control )

3. Floor console parking brake lever cover

· 4WD switch connector connection

· Heated switch connector connection <Vehicles with heated seat>

4. Shift lever panel assembly

5. 4WD switch or S-AWC switch <4WD>

6. Floor console plug <2WD>

7. Plug <Except vehicles with heated seat>

8. Heated switch <Vehicles with heated seat>

9. Ring

10. Boot assembly

· Inside transmission antenna (front) (Refer to GROUP 42B - Outside Transmission Antenna, Inside Transmission Antenna Assembly, Receiver Antenna Module ).

11. Floor console front

12. Floor console trim plate bracket

13. Floor console bracket centre

Blower Removal steps

1. Heater piping hose connection

2. Grommet

3. Insulator A <<A>>
4. A/C compressor suction hose connection <<A>>
5. A/C condenser outlet pipe connection

6. O-ring

7. Expansion valve cover

8. Insulator B

9. A/C evaporator drain hose

· Instrument panel removal and Installation (Refer to GROUP 52A - Instrument Panel ).

· Instrument panel wiring harness connector disconnection

10. Earth bolt

11. Centre flame assembly

12. Earth bolt

13. Front deck crossmember

14. Heater air intake duct

15. Heater assembly

 

You are the man!

Thanks very much for everything you've posted -- especially the time, tools, tips and effort it took to do the job!

 

I don’t think it’s holding. Condenser is next. Ordered a GPD one. It looks a like oily but after spraying soap, I can’t really see any bubbles. Tricky part may be that plastic bracket blocking access to the bolt to disconnect the A/C lines
A couple years ago, my wife hit a curb and blew out a passenger side tire so I suspect that maybe part of the issue, but it held a charge for a year after that happened…

Interesting his is dark on the bottom left too but he got bubbles https://youtu.be/qE4y6lyQzxo

 

Sweet, I found soap bubbles in the same exact spot as this guy!

You Tube

 

That's a great video and you posted some great photos. The video also shows very well how to access and remove the condenser for repair or replacement.

(Are you sure that you don't want to go for a hat trick with a new compressor?)

Again, thanks for posting how it's going.

 

A/C compressor seems OK, I spent my budget on a Harbor Freight vacuum pump instead since my cheap
venturi vacuum isn’t working well with my compressor. can not keep 90psi for longer than 5 min or so…

I think the trick will be getting the right amount of oil back in the system. I added about 1ounce when I replaced the evaporator.

Also bought an oil test kit to help determine if I’m in the ball park.
https://www.amazon.com/ENVIRO-SAFE-Pittstop-R134A-Checker-Pack/dp/B0821PJPJT/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=QVVIYVWBBOOW&keywords=ac+oil+t est+kit&qid=1687113528&sprefix=ac+oil+test+ki%2Cap s%2C216&sr=8-8

 

Just curious what model Outlander? Also, If an SE with dual Ac did you get the whole housing or just the evaporator and was it replaceable. I have been told only the whole housing will work and no longer available. Thanks for the info.