Mine is a 2016 with dual zone. No issues getting evaporator from mitsubishiparts.com Took the old one out and put the new one in. Not a big deal once the assembly is out. Will sell my used OEM one for a good price.

Replaced my condenser today with a GDP brand which resolved my leak. Pretty good fit, just the clip is a little off, might put some black tape or something on it to keep from rubbing…

Attached a pic of the clip (before condenser installed).

 

Tru, great job! Have you fired the thing up yet (tough to do with an AC) and, if so, how's everything running?

BTW, what did you have to shell out for the condenser?

Are you saying that there was nothing wrong with your evaporator? If there wasn't, finding that out after going through all of the hassle to remove it must have been one of those proverbial WTF moments. If we ever have issues with our AC, your experience has taught me to check the condenser first, then the compressor and then, heaven forbid, the evaporator. I hope our new Bosch HEPA is filtering out any protential problems with our evap.

Thanks again.

 

Yep, ice cold! Hardest part was getting the upper air flow guide out so I had more access to the lines and bolt. One push pin requires a bumper removal so I just forced that one out That larger diameter line was a pain to get out of the condenser. Trick was to wiggle and while pulling. Also helps if you have another person to push the radiator back and the trans cooler forward so you can guide the condenser in easier. Overall, not to bad, better then pulling the dash out…

I also cleaned up the radiator a little, hard to see from pic, but you can see some brown dirt/grass, etc.

 

I checked with my local dealer and was told backorder but they said it had to be the whole housing. I found aftermarkets that show just the evaporator to be replaceable. I haven't confirmed my evap yet but is most likely the cause as no dye present. I have a friend at a shop double checking before I move forward.

 

Ah, yeah the Mitsu OEM evaporator comes with expansion valve, don’t need the whole HVAC assembly/housing. That would be super expensive.

 

Yeah I think that passenger side lower pipe to the condenser maybe a common leak since the guy in the YouTube video had the same exact issue. Best to check for oil spots and spray some soap water and look for bubbles. It’s a slow leak and still bubbled some.

I bought a sniffer and it went off just as much at the condenser as it did in the vent. I was concerned about getting the coolant in the cabin so I did the evaporator first. Still goes off when the compressor kicks… So knowing I still slowly lost vacuum, I replaced the condenser which fixed the vacuum leak issue. Used all the old o rings (new ones still in shipping). They looked to be in good shape, just oiled them up again really good.

Took apart the drier today, looked exactly like the one in this video: I don’t think I would replace just a drier, getting it off the condenser lines off with a ratchet was a real pain. Bent the lines trying to unbolt the lines from the drier. Maybe an impact would work better, but I wasn’t to worried since it’s junk now.

 

Thanks again. I had no idea what those driers looked like inside.

 

Ugh so I used the ac oil tester and it’s not so obvious. The new PAG oil is so clear with the slightest tint of yellow if you look into the bulk of the bottle. It looks as if I have no oil but I see oil on the sides of the clear plastic, as if it blew by the cotton or whatever the white material is. I know I added at least an ounce with the new evaporator and condenser to replace what was taken out from the old parts. Good thing is it is clear though, but enough I’m not sure…. Who’s know how much leaked out from the condenser before the repair… Wonder if I did something wrong, like need to cover the top with my thumb, it has vent holes at the top though…but again it’s so clear it’s hard to read..

 

What you have in your hand is an oil tester, right? If it's not, I have no idea what that device is

The oil you are talking about is oil that is added to the AC compressor to lubricate its moving parts, right? I thought that that oil was not supposed to leave the compressor. (What was leaking from the condensor was refrigerant, not oil, correct?)

 

It's my understanding most of the oil is supposed to stay in the compressor, but it circulates with the refrigerant. I've had a leak for about 9-12 months (not sure when it actually started leaking...). Recharged it last fall (when the snow flake icon started flashing due to not enough pressure) with A/C Pro (contains 3 ounces of additives, ACP200-6), recharged it after evaporator repair (SuperTech R-134A) with some A/C Pro PAG 46 (oil 20ml or so), then again recently after the condenser repair (SuperTech R-134A) which I added 15ml of oil. I tried a test on my Kia Forte which had its engine block replaced under warranty 5 years ago or so, and the A/C tester looks the same... I ordered a Lichamp AC Oil Injector. I may inject another 1/2 ounce else just leave it alone. Really hard to tell how much oil was lost due to the leak and recharges/fills. You can see some of it leaking across the old condenser which is why the lower left is darker and the plastic holder looks a little oily.

Anyways seems like those oil testers are a waste of money at this point. Probably get similar results with a paper towel and screwdriver lol If I had some dye in the system, maybe it would be more helpful, but then throws up the oil of the oil condition...