Hi, I have an Outlander 2011 GX4 and recently had a warning on dash -' Check Engine Oil' . I immediately thought it was too low but when checked the disptick it was way above the upper limit. It was also accompanied by gradual loss of power and lumpiness when accelerating, this was cured by pulling over and stopping for 10 mins. Is this a dpf regen issue as it must be diesel getting into the sump for the level to be so high? Any advice on a fix? Change of oil and filter obviously! Cheers

 

DO NOT CHANGE OIL AND FILTER UNTIL THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN FIXED.

you will just contaminate your new oil with diesel fuel, and it will need changing again.

This oil dilution is caused by repeated DPF regneration failures, and you need to get this sorted out first

 

You might have a serious problem, but i do not see how you can fix it or even investigate without draining oil and replacing/inspecting the filter? Maybe your filter is badly clogged and circulation of the oil is blocked???

However, 4N14 and many other diesel engines used to get increased oil level due to diesel fuel leak outside the cylinders under DPF regeneration and even without regeneration it leaks slightly anyway. This is normal. If there is no serious problem with your car and if you do not like oil level increase, then one solution is to install oil catch can/separator. Despite, the confusing name, it is used to catch actually what evaporates first: paraffin, water and diesel. It catches a little bit of oil but its content is below 5-10% and the rest is water+diesel+paraffin. I have a catch can (attaching a picture) installed in my car for about 3-4 years, it has volume of about 100-200mL. It works good, however, I have to empty it manually every 2 weeks during the winter and every 2-3 month during the other seasons. The winter diesel (here in Sweden) contains more chemical additives preventing fuel freezing, but it evaporates and can be easily caught by can.

If there is no catcher, then oil level will increase steadily. There is an engine vent connecting the top engine part with air hose (right after the air filter but before turbo charger). The purpose of this vent is to recirculate bad smelling gases back cylinders. The water+diesel+paraffin+few drops of oil evaporates and coming together with these gases. Obviously, this vent is inefficient to get rid of water and other additives, they keep accumulating in your oil. The catcher can is typically installed in this vent allowing gases to go though catcher, the vapor cools down and condensates inside the can, but gases will continue back to air intake and burn inside the cylinder (at least in theory :-D ).

 

Like I said, this is caused by Failure of the DPF process of regeneration. Changing the oil will be a waste of money, as you will have to change it again soon after if you do not fix the problem first.

I do not know where this information comes from. I would love to see a source. This is total rubbish. With a correctly running and regenerating engine the oil level will NOT increase at all, not even 1cc. When the warning light comes on the engine oil will be raised by at least 1550cc

This is incorrect. Please do not post bad information, which is likely to mislead a reader of this forum.

I am a Mitsubishi trained Master technician currently working at a main dealer in Australia. I diagnose and repair these vehicles on a daily basis.

I research thoroughly and used evidence based reasoning to diagnose DPF failures using the appropriate technical information and diagnostic tools to achieve this.

 

If this (issue with DPF) would be the main reason then you would get a DPF failed regeneration error message/engine check on the panel + corresponding error code and then a limp mode way before few drops of fuel will be mixed with oil.

I think this info (about gradual increase of the oil level in 4N14 due to water and other substances in fuel) is mentioned in the car user manual (at least in European one :-D ), I can of course find it, make a snapshot and then copy-paste it here. But will I waste my time? No.

Actually, too much oil in the engine may damage the engine. It is written in every manual. As a "Mitsubishi trained Master technician" you should know this DibbyDibbyDJ . Suggesting to "not to change oil" is really bad advise with very expensive consequences.

And BTW, engine or some of its seals might be damaged already and oil can be mixed with coolant causing oil level increase. In this case it is nothing to do with DPF at all. I respect your theory DibbyDibbyDJ but it is only a theory right? Please do not attack people here. We all have our theories and most of them are worth to check or at least discuss. That's why this forum exists and that's why we like it.

 

Not correct



I said " DO NOT CHANGE OIL AND FILTER UNTIL THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN FIXED." This means exactly that. Fix the problem as a matter of urgency. The car needs urgent attention.


It’s not a theory, it’s a known concern with Most diesel engines with DPF issues.

 

I'm not familiar with the DPF regen setup in outlanders, however oil dilution is a very real issue for various diesel engines with DPF. DPF regen requires additional fuel in order to burn the soot, there's a couple of methods to do this, 1) via an extra injector in the exhaust before the DPF, 2) use the engines normal fuel injectors to provide additional fuel. The second method is the one that leads to oil dilution issues.

If you've never had this issue before, then its probably worth getting a once over done just to make sure everything is working in order. I belive its a good idea to get the oil changed as dilution will be creating a reduction in oil viscosity. Oil is cheap and it will most likely take some time for the level to increase again.

 

"...fuel can mix with the engine oil and an increase in the engine oil level may occur. This does not indicate an abnormality. However if the engine oil level is at or over the X level .....change the oil."

​​​​​Well, after that display of expertise from a 'Mitsubishi master technician' let's just stay clear of the dealership and do some diagnosing?

Well if you know so much about the system, then feel free to change the oil.

An increased oil level does not indicate an anomaly, that is correct. However when the level reaches 1550cc, which is when the fault code is generated, you have a problem.

On a well running engine, doing lots of motorway driving this oil level will not increase.

With lots of stop start driving the oil level will increase. This is normal. But once the oil level has increased to above 400cc, then there is an issue which is only going to get worse.

If that statement IS in the handbook then it is very misleading. Like i said in previous posts, changing the oil is pointless until the fault is fixed. I stand by this 100%. If you change the oil and just continue driving you are just going to contaminate your fresh oil and will be back in the same situation.

Prevention is better than sticking your head in the sand and believing what keyboard warriors say on a forum.

 

I can’t believe I really have to do this, but here we are. Everyone enough with the stick slinging. Everyone on here is a keyboard jocky that either enjoys working on these cars or vehicles in general. Show some respect and quit throwing “credentials” around. Make your point without the I’m right you’re wrong attitude. This goes for everyone.

I’m locking this thread now. play nice.

and yes this forum is moderated. I just don’t read every thread every day.