Hey gang, just wondering if anyone could give some feedback, personal experience or thoughts on a few things, drive train and suspension related.

1.When I put my Outlander in AWD, and I slowly give it a bit of gas and lay off, the car feels like it's bouncing a bit back and forth, elastic like - very little, but noticeable. If I put in FWD and do the same thing, I don't get this feeling; is this a normal feeling due to AWD and drive train?

2.Sometimes if feels like the drive train slips; ie I give it gas and there is a very small delay (maybe 1/2 sec) where it engages, I hear it and feel it - when I had a Jeep, this was a somewhat known issue with the slip yoke, but not sure if it would be the same here.

3.When I go slow over speed bumps (indoor garage), I hear a bunch of squeaks; I imagine it's from bushings; I guess I will investigate and see if any are broken and need to be replaced; are there particular ones that would cause this symptom I should check first? Has anyone replaced any joints from OEM with aftermarket ones that have grease nipples? Is it worthwhile to do that for the additional price?

4.Car is pulling left. I am planning on taking it for an alignment, I think it's been at least 2 years since last time anyway, but first I will check #3 above to see if any link/joint/bushing needs replacement. I am not hear any "clacking" that would tell me it's a ball/x joint (not sure if Outlander has x joints). Is it too open ended to ask, if a car pulls right or left, are there specific things to check (that may be worn and need replacement) that I should check out first?

5.When I have my foot on the brake, and I remove it slooowly I get this creaking sound, low pitched, almost like a hinge that needs grease; is this normal? If I let off quick no such sound(s). Just curious if this is normal or if it's something I could grease.

6.How hard is it to replace the front pipe that has the flex pipe; I found an aftermarket replacement for this (OEM is around $400+) front pipe for around $100; has anyone replaced this? My concern is with those bolts that are pretty rusted and having them snap/break.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

 

1. I think the rear wheel drive is electronically controlled and I find in I use it in 4WD lock as opposed to FWD or 4WD Auto, it certainly feels like I'm pulling a heavy weight. Sorry there's explanation, but that's how my car feels.
2. Not sure is your car A/T or M/T? on my M/T 2.2, there is a dual mass flywheel which I had to replace recently as it lost it's performance (alongside the clutch)
3. I get this on my fronts and it appeared REALLY bad on my rears after I replaced the rear shocks. Turns out it was the top dust cover being too tight on the shaft of the shock. I found this out after I had replaced ALL drop links (sway-bar links) and bushes. I fixed the rears by making the outside diameter of the dust cover bigger and it's been silent ever since. Haven't got round to doing the front though.
4. You didn't say whether this was normally or under breaking. But could be suspension components or a hanging rear calliper (had a rear seize on mine and car would pull in the direction of the seized calliper) or even tyre (tire) pressures.
5. I think it's normal as it takes a few seconds for the brake pads to move away from the disc. Mine does this and I have replaced pads and discs (rotors). If you do grease anything do NOT get any grease near ANY friction material!
6. My exhaust is some sort of alloy from factory, but I cannot for the life understand why the manufacturer made the flanges out of what seems like pig iron. There are lots of youtube videos on removing such bolts and some are perhaps more challenging for the likes of us without oxyacetylene torches and ramps to hand.

HTH