HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
#121
01-31-2011, 05:45 PM
hey I have installed my HID's like you did in the pictures and when i turn my lights on the flicker oncer then they go out can any one help me out these are brand new HID so i don't think it is the ballasts or any thing else could it be i need to upgrade my fuses please help.
#122
03-23-2011, 03:42 PM
I have 09 Outie and i baught a 9006 & H11 6000K 55W Hid Kit with a relay harness', all i need is to add the capacitor and that will make it work? do i NEED to solder the capacitor or can i just squeeze it in with the pins to make them work?
#123
07-12-2011, 08:58 AM
I bought an aftermarket HID conversion kit for 9006 Low Beam replacement. Cost $100 Canadian. I also bought a Relay Harness to resolve the DRL problem on Canadian Cars. Cost $30. Our DRL is done by sending 9 Volts to the Low Beam headlamp. The relay harness should have taken care of this but I had to add one little modification (a capacitor) to make it work. The reason is that the relay will not fire properly causing the HID lamps to flicker when DRL is running.
Before Pics, Instructions and After pics below. The result is spectacular! I chose 6000K bulbs. I don't recommend higher to get bluer light, you lose light output.
Before:
Bulb Removed from Passenger headlamp assembly. Insert your HID lights into the headlamp assemblies. You can loosen the two screws on the retainer if the fit is too tight.
Relay Harness with modification.
Relay removed showing modification. You must solder a Capacitor in parallel with the coil that activates the relay. If you do not, the relay will click on and off rapidly and this will pulse your HID ballasts and bulbs... BAD. I used a 16V 2500mf capacitor. I wouldn't use anything less. I would actually recommend a 25V capacitor and 2500mf and above.
The relay in the harness is an automotive 12V relay. Typically, the coil is on Pins 85 and 86. You wire the capacitor's positive lead to the the positive post of the relay (usually pin 86), the negative lead to negative post (usually pin 85). I also used a little shrink wrap on the wiring:
Relay back in harness with tie wrap to hold it in solid:
Harness with large shrink wrap to protect the relay and capacitor:
On to the installunder the hood. I tie wrapped the relay harness to the metal bracket that holds an electronic box (black plastic) just behind the drivers headlamp assembly. You will have to remove the bracket to get at the lamp anyway:
The trigger wire for the relay plugs to the driver side headlamp wiring. Make sure you plug positive to positive, negative to negative. There is no danger but if things don't work, reverse this plug. Use tie wrap to secure the two together:
The +12V power that will power your HID ballasts comes from the battery:
Replace the bracket and electronic box with the relay harness that you tie wrapped to the backside. Use the 10mm screw that holds that bracket down as your grounding point for the relay harness:
Ensure that you tape off (weather proof) the passenger side headlamp connector. It's not going to be used anymore so tie wrap it to something. The relay harness supplies two lines for bothballasts. The 12V is drawn directly from the battery:
The ballasts fit really nicely below the lip of the fender on both sides. Conveniently, there are holes you can use to secure the ballasts bracket assembly with a nut and bolt on one side and a tie wrap on the other side:
Connect the ballasts to the bulbs that you have already inserted into the headlamp assemblies. Connect the two power lines coming from the relay harness to each ballast. The drivers side ballast power lead is quite short, the passenger side is quite long. I routed the line going to the passenger side in front of the battery, following above the radiator and then to the passenger side. There are many points to secure your wiring with tie wraps along the way. Clean up your install with tie wraps anywhere necessary.
And finally, the finished product!! I tested on the road, and it was absolutely not necessary to readjust the beam heights, they're perfect. Light output is incredible, 3X that of the stock halogens. Stick with 6000K bulbs, anything higher is just silly. I may eventually do the fogs as well, although I like the effect of the two different light temperatures, makes the HID stand out even more.
Before Pics, Instructions and After pics below. The result is spectacular! I chose 6000K bulbs. I don't recommend higher to get bluer light, you lose light output.
Before:
Bulb Removed from Passenger headlamp assembly. Insert your HID lights into the headlamp assemblies. You can loosen the two screws on the retainer if the fit is too tight.
Relay Harness with modification.
Relay removed showing modification. You must solder a Capacitor in parallel with the coil that activates the relay. If you do not, the relay will click on and off rapidly and this will pulse your HID ballasts and bulbs... BAD. I used a 16V 2500mf capacitor. I wouldn't use anything less. I would actually recommend a 25V capacitor and 2500mf and above.
The relay in the harness is an automotive 12V relay. Typically, the coil is on Pins 85 and 86. You wire the capacitor's positive lead to the the positive post of the relay (usually pin 86), the negative lead to negative post (usually pin 85). I also used a little shrink wrap on the wiring:
Relay back in harness with tie wrap to hold it in solid:
Harness with large shrink wrap to protect the relay and capacitor:
On to the installunder the hood. I tie wrapped the relay harness to the metal bracket that holds an electronic box (black plastic) just behind the drivers headlamp assembly. You will have to remove the bracket to get at the lamp anyway:
The trigger wire for the relay plugs to the driver side headlamp wiring. Make sure you plug positive to positive, negative to negative. There is no danger but if things don't work, reverse this plug. Use tie wrap to secure the two together:
The +12V power that will power your HID ballasts comes from the battery:
Replace the bracket and electronic box with the relay harness that you tie wrapped to the backside. Use the 10mm screw that holds that bracket down as your grounding point for the relay harness:
Ensure that you tape off (weather proof) the passenger side headlamp connector. It's not going to be used anymore so tie wrap it to something. The relay harness supplies two lines for bothballasts. The 12V is drawn directly from the battery:
The ballasts fit really nicely below the lip of the fender on both sides. Conveniently, there are holes you can use to secure the ballasts bracket assembly with a nut and bolt on one side and a tie wrap on the other side:
Connect the ballasts to the bulbs that you have already inserted into the headlamp assemblies. Connect the two power lines coming from the relay harness to each ballast. The drivers side ballast power lead is quite short, the passenger side is quite long. I routed the line going to the passenger side in front of the battery, following above the radiator and then to the passenger side. There are many points to secure your wiring with tie wraps along the way. Clean up your install with tie wraps anywhere necessary.
And finally, the finished product!! I tested on the road, and it was absolutely not necessary to readjust the beam heights, they're perfect. Light output is incredible, 3X that of the stock halogens. Stick with 6000K bulbs, anything higher is just silly. I may eventually do the fogs as well, although I like the effect of the two different light temperatures, makes the HID stand out even more.
#124
07-18-2011, 08:52 PM
just installed my HID
Ok i just installed my HID conversion kit on my 07 outlander. it was a pain in the butt but the installer got it to work. I picked up a plug and play Philips system with the anti flicker system. it was very easy to install at first, it looked like it worked but the car was off, lol. as soon as i turned on the car, strobe light heaven, lol. we tried everything, finally and the only way i got it to work was too directly have the power come from the battery and with a use of relay and fuse, but it was connected to the parking lights. so no more DRL's running which is fine with me, and switch on the lights like normal except they activate on the first click of the parking lights. Fogs also work but switched on all the way. lastly high beams work with the HID lights so they are super bright when i use the highs. if anyone cares i will post some pics eventually when i have some extra time.
#126
07-29-2011, 04:03 PM
So I have a 2009 Mitsubishi outlander SE and I currently have 55W HID Kit from Mod-Express and managed to cut off the DRLs with a special harness thanks to Jrox on ebay.
Now Im moving onto the Foglights and I want to throw in HIDs but for some reason its not working!
I have a standard Relay harness and the installation instructions I used were these:
Relay Installation Guide
Now I troubleshooted and checked my ballasts and bulbs and they all work.
How can you check if a relay harness is in working order??
Am I installing something wrong?
Maybe a polarity issue? (although I checked and tried that)
I just feel as if Im doing something wrong here.
PLEASE HELP!
Thanks to all in advance !
Now Im moving onto the Foglights and I want to throw in HIDs but for some reason its not working!
I have a standard Relay harness and the installation instructions I used were these:
Relay Installation Guide
Now I troubleshooted and checked my ballasts and bulbs and they all work.
How can you check if a relay harness is in working order??
Am I installing something wrong?
Maybe a polarity issue? (although I checked and tried that)
I just feel as if Im doing something wrong here.
PLEASE HELP!
Thanks to all in advance !
#127
08-18-2011, 10:40 PM
I guess it goes without saying that you do not need to do all this trickery with the Lexia software, just disable DRLs. Or better yet, maybe somebody can find the right setting to use fogs as DRLs.
#128
08-29-2011, 03:22 PM
so i have a 55W hid kit with a relay.. and i noticed that my housing get hot when the hids are on for a while.. i was wondering if it would eventually be damaging toward my car bc of this.. i have a 2009 mitsubishi outlander.. has anyone experienced any problems with melting headlights or problems?
#129
08-30-2011, 07:28 AM
if you were able to perform step 4, you shouldn't have any problems, unless your relay is not working. If you hear it clicking, it should be in working order. Check the in-line fuse that came with the relay kit.
If the trigger, which is the plug in Step 4, is not hooked up properly your relay will not function.
If the trigger, which is the plug in Step 4, is not hooked up properly your relay will not function.
So I have a 2009 Mitsubishi outlander SE and I currently have 55W HID Kit from Mod-Express and managed to cut off the DRLs with a special harness thanks to Jrox on ebay.
Now Im moving onto the Foglights and I want to throw in HIDs but for some reason its not working!
I have a standard Relay harness and the installation instructions I used were these:
Relay Installation Guide
Now I troubleshooted and checked my ballasts and bulbs and they all work.
How can you check if a relay harness is in working order??
Am I installing something wrong?
Maybe a polarity issue? (although I checked and tried that)
I just feel as if Im doing something wrong here.
PLEASE HELP!
Thanks to all in advance !
Now Im moving onto the Foglights and I want to throw in HIDs but for some reason its not working!
I have a standard Relay harness and the installation instructions I used were these:
Relay Installation Guide
Now I troubleshooted and checked my ballasts and bulbs and they all work.
How can you check if a relay harness is in working order??
Am I installing something wrong?
Maybe a polarity issue? (although I checked and tried that)
I just feel as if Im doing something wrong here.
PLEASE HELP!
Thanks to all in advance !
#130
08-30-2011, 08:04 AM
First things first:
55 HID kits are NOT to be used in your reflective headlight housing on public roads. 55W HID kits are used for OFF-Roading only. They are way too bright, and will burn holes into peoples eyes that are oncoming. - Now this is my opinion, as I can't stand being blinded by some Yahoo, who has HIDs and has the beams aimed into the sky to navigate Aliens down to earth.
UNLESS, you have projectors, that will produce a clean cut, the increase in lumens will be directed onto the pavement, and not into drivers faces.
They will also burn much hotter, and are mostly meant for heavy duty PIAA or Hella housings that will withstand the heat generated.
FYI, 35W HID kits already produce 3 times the light (lumens) than your regular 55W Halogen bulb.
Back to your question, no, I have never heard of anyone's housing melting.
Put your Halogen bulb in there, and you'll notice how hot those get.
You are supposed to have some heat in there, otherwise you will notice icing issues in the winter time.
I owned a Mazda3 before (they come with Halogen Projectors) and I changed it to 35W HIDs. They barley de-iced while driving on the Hwy.
55 HID kits are NOT to be used in your reflective headlight housing on public roads. 55W HID kits are used for OFF-Roading only. They are way too bright, and will burn holes into peoples eyes that are oncoming. - Now this is my opinion, as I can't stand being blinded by some Yahoo, who has HIDs and has the beams aimed into the sky to navigate Aliens down to earth.
UNLESS, you have projectors, that will produce a clean cut, the increase in lumens will be directed onto the pavement, and not into drivers faces.
They will also burn much hotter, and are mostly meant for heavy duty PIAA or Hella housings that will withstand the heat generated.
FYI, 35W HID kits already produce 3 times the light (lumens) than your regular 55W Halogen bulb.
Back to your question, no, I have never heard of anyone's housing melting.
Put your Halogen bulb in there, and you'll notice how hot those get.
You are supposed to have some heat in there, otherwise you will notice icing issues in the winter time.
I owned a Mazda3 before (they come with Halogen Projectors) and I changed it to 35W HIDs. They barley de-iced while driving on the Hwy.
so i have a 55W hid kit with a relay.. and i noticed that my housing get hot when the hids are on for a while.. i was wondering if it would eventually be damaging toward my car bc of this.. i have a 2009 mitsubishi outlander.. has anyone experienced any problems with melting headlights or problems?