outlander 2.0 turbo diesel engine ---loss of power
#121
09-02-2016, 08:32 AM
#122
09-03-2016, 07:30 AM
Hi, Its been a few years since i sold my grandis d.i.d but would think this fairly simple (maybe someone could correct me who has done it recently)
This is a 2.0tdi VAg engine, it seems nearly all if not all are running a Bosch EDC16 ecu. Id need to know that first. Some 2.0tdi's run a siemens set up and it can still be done but is a bit more complicated.
I would think as the actuator pictured is vacuum operated if you disconnected the vac line, it would remain perm shut. Then remove ecu from car (better then via obd) and remap with all egr related data off (approx £150-200 if you need to get someone to do this for you) if you want to get into this yourself you would need to buy probably a good KTAG clone from china, but be careful which one you get as they may need to be reworked. Then ask for an EGR off file from someone that knows what they are doing. (approx 50e for a good map file)
Once the ecu is reprogrammed it wont recognise theres any fault with EGR system, even though the vac hose is off. You may need to do more work depending on what type of valve opens to let the exhaust gas through.
I have EGR off files as well as DPF off.
EGR is of no benefit to the engine, in fact its quite the opposite. The ECU decides how much to open the poppet vale (in this case) in the picture depending upon load. On full throttle the valve is shut, and when doddering its open quite a bit. This is the reason wht cars that get a good thrashing all of the time (like the high motorway milers) dont get this problem so much. EGR is purely for enviornmental reasons and manufacturers must fit them. When open they allow a small percentage of exhaust gas to recuirculate into the intake and this has the affect of lowering combustion temperatures due to the fact that it doesnt burn very well. This in turn then means that the vehicle produces less nitrous oxide which is harmful to the enviornment and causes acid rain amongst other things.The price it comes with is less performance and more blockages, which is why the valve shuts at full throttle.
Hope this help you all
This is a 2.0tdi VAg engine, it seems nearly all if not all are running a Bosch EDC16 ecu. Id need to know that first. Some 2.0tdi's run a siemens set up and it can still be done but is a bit more complicated.
I would think as the actuator pictured is vacuum operated if you disconnected the vac line, it would remain perm shut. Then remove ecu from car (better then via obd) and remap with all egr related data off (approx £150-200 if you need to get someone to do this for you) if you want to get into this yourself you would need to buy probably a good KTAG clone from china, but be careful which one you get as they may need to be reworked. Then ask for an EGR off file from someone that knows what they are doing. (approx 50e for a good map file)
Once the ecu is reprogrammed it wont recognise theres any fault with EGR system, even though the vac hose is off. You may need to do more work depending on what type of valve opens to let the exhaust gas through.
I have EGR off files as well as DPF off.
EGR is of no benefit to the engine, in fact its quite the opposite. The ECU decides how much to open the poppet vale (in this case) in the picture depending upon load. On full throttle the valve is shut, and when doddering its open quite a bit. This is the reason wht cars that get a good thrashing all of the time (like the high motorway milers) dont get this problem so much. EGR is purely for enviornmental reasons and manufacturers must fit them. When open they allow a small percentage of exhaust gas to recuirculate into the intake and this has the affect of lowering combustion temperatures due to the fact that it doesnt burn very well. This in turn then means that the vehicle produces less nitrous oxide which is harmful to the enviornment and causes acid rain amongst other things.The price it comes with is less performance and more blockages, which is why the valve shuts at full throttle.
Hope this help you all
Thank you!
#123
09-04-2016, 06:30 AM
Dear lazarus79, this very valuable point, could you please re-post your message in https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/in...ing-egr-46734/
Thank you!
Thank you!
Done,
but i noticed your car is a 2013 2.2, which if a Bosch system will be an EDC17 or another brand, not sure as I have had little contact with them
#124
10-25-2016, 05:24 PM
Break fuel vacum pum
When I installed a diesel heater on my 2007 outlander the mechanicer found a lot of oil in the gas tank. He said that it is common on 2.0 vag motor. The break vacuum pump is the failure. The oil is then making engine trouble.
#125
12-05-2016, 02:01 AM
Loss of power
Here we go again. This time it's worse. I have had the car checked and yes "overboost" is the problem, however now the front hose is now being forced off when ever the turbo comes in so I have to keep the car revs below 2000. What a joke. I have the car booked in later this week to have the turbo removed and cleaned up. Hopefully this will sort out the problem. Could the vanes be blocked up with soot, we will find out.
#127
07-12-2019, 03:11 AM
Some cheap advice
Hi Guys. I have the AWD model and found that when my tire pressures are different, I got this problem. I researched and found that the low pressure turns quicker than the high pressure tires. I equaled all pressures and after a km it all got good.
Just some quick help there
Just some quick help there
#128
10-27-2019, 09:50 AM
Solinoid valve
Hi so same issue as you all have but have you ever tough about valve solindoid block as it manually controls turbo intakes that's why no lights coming up ? Just your thoughts on that
#130
12-15-2019, 11:30 AM
Hello Matt, just seen this post after doing a bit of googling. I have also just bought a Mitsubishi Outlander 2.0 DI-D 2008. It has receipts for a new turbo in August 2019.
The car has been driving great until i hit 75mph/ish and then the turbo cuts out leaving me very underpowered. Doesn't throw a CEL up, but after putting a OBD reader on it i have P0299 pending (underboost problem) im maybe thinking the Boost controller/sensor. Turning off the vehicle and starting it back fixes the problem.
Are the above problems the same symptoms you was having? Is the sensor a easy enough job to swap on the driveway?
Also is this the sensor in question: https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/bo...waAlIlEALw_wcB
Would appreciate any help with this.
Regards,
Ryan
Last edited by Rybo; 12-15-2019 at 11:35 AM.