I want to apologize for my terrible English.
I write using translation package.

There are specialized teams who control the entire circuit of the turbo.
Make research at the market to found which of them is the best and visits hem.
In my car the problem was born when loosened a clip from a hose turbo circuit (I do not know to tell you who tube). The solution was the replacement of the clip (clamp collar).

 

Hi, I recently purchased a grandis 2.0 DID and all seemed fine. Then as per all the other posts i got management light on loss of power (until restarting) and a fault code for overboost. Fortunetly I am a mechanic and not willing to spend the £500 + for an aftermarket turbo or £850 + for a garrett I removed the turbo from the car and opened it up to expose the variable vane mechanism. Sure enough they were stiff and 3 of the vanes were stuck in 1 position therefore stopping them all moving correctly. I stripped the mechanism out and stoned the sticking vanes off. I then checked and all of the vanes moved freely. I then put the turbo back together and replaced on the car. The result? a much much faster car, better MPG and no more faults (well at least for the past 3 weeks, or 500 miles). Attached is an image of the variable van mechanism with the turbo removed from the exhaust manifold. This fix cost me nothing at all, and if someone was to come to me as a retail customer to my garage I would charge approx £450 job done. Much better then the £1000+ bill you would get for a new turbo.

 

Hi Lazarus79. Just Today again after about 2 months of free driving again a loss of power
this was only 2 days after this was put on a computer to check the Outlander 2.0 DID 08
and everything checked ok. this morning on a drive the loss of power happened again. As of recent posts there was no signs of any deposits or Oil on the rubber housing coming out of the Turbo at the under the Car. Will doing what you did to the Turbo
sort out this sudden power loss ???

 

so long as your fault code is for overboost the chances are that its your variable vanes in the turbo housing sticking, but of course i couldn't be certain without seeing it. you would know once the turbo was removed and dismantled as it became very evident with mine that a few of the vanes were quite stuck causing all of the others to then stick in the ring

 

Thanks for that info Lazarus79. There was no indication on the dash or coming up in any reading about any fault codes so i will pass that info on about the variable vanes in the turbo housing sticking, to the Mechanic to see what he can do about the Turbo

 

I have a question. That what happens to our turbo diesel outlander, also happens to other turbo diesel motors, car manufacturers and at what rate? Should we turn together pay against to the manufacturing company?
Sorry for my English, but as I wrote ar the first post, I am writing using translation tool.

 

Hi everyone,
Joined this forum to say thanks for this thread & to post my experience in case it can help others.
My car is a UK 08 Outlander Elegance with 110k on the clock. When putting my foot down at motorway speed my car would occasionally revert to ‘limp home mode’ causing the speed to drop to about 55mph and make it feel like the turbo had been disconnected. This isn’t rev related, more load/throttle angle.
Turning the car off & on would reset the problem straight away. No fault lights were shown and no fault codes were stored making diagnosis tricky…
I managed to make it to a dealer in this condition and the car was diagnosed with turbo overboost causing the car to revert into limp home mode. New turbo was recommended....
Ringing round for quotes, one Mistsubishi dealer quoted £2000 for the turbo with a 1 year warranty, without fitting!!! The best dealer quote I got was £1600 inc VAT and fitting. The dealers would only give me the Mitsubishi part number which made it hard to source the part elsewhere.
Cutting a long story short, the turbo is made by Garrett and their website shows you how to identify your turbo:
http://garrettbyhoneywell.com/products/turbo-identification/
It is possible to identify your turbo without removing it from the car. All you need to do is put the car on full left lock and look under the O/S wheel arch. I used my phone to take a picture of it. There are a load of different numbers on the ID plate in varying stats of corrosion. The important one was the ‘Garrett Part number’, mine was 756062-2.
At this point my plan was to buy a new turbo on ebay or from Garrett. I rang the distributor for a quote they wouldn’t sell to me direct. I did find out that the part had been superseded but they wouldn’t tell me the new part number either. I got a quote from their retailer which I think was about £700 for a recon unit or £1000 for new.
Eurocarparts/carparts4less also sell the turbo but my best quote came from Midland Turbo. A recon unit with gaskets & 2 year warranty was £370 delivered on an exchange basis (they were happy to pick up the old unit a week later).
I got my local dealer to fit the turbo as I trusted them to do a proper job. This cost £400 for the labour, oil, filter and new feed pipe. In summary a new turbo fitted for £770 inc vat.
Hope this helps,
Tim

 

My first post since it made me feel like I wasn't alone....
I have a Lancer Sportback 2.0 DI-D 60 plate.
After about 48K miles my car started to lose power just as everyone else here. It only ever happened first thing in the morning. Turn the engine off/on and everything was fine after the first time it happened. I put it down to gremlins in the works. It was still under warranty. After about 2 months it happened again, two days in a row - again switch off/on and it fixed it. I had about a month left of warranty so I booked it into the dealership to get checked. They told me that the turbo was faulty and needed to be replaced. Makes no sense - if a turbo was faulty why would switching the engine off/on fix it right away?? Anyway, it was under warranty so hey. Anyway after much annoyance and arguing, Mitsubishi refused the warranty claim saying that the warranty was invalid due to the wrong oil being used during a service interval. Long story, very short, my mechanic took the blame and replaced the turbo foc - He did say that there was a bit of play in it so replaced it. £900 out of his pocket. All done 3 weeks later, same problem. I knew that it wasn't the turbo and so wasn't that fussed about this anymore - engine off/on and back to normal. My mechanic would get around to the issue during further services. It happened off and on for a while and recently I had my 62k service. About 100 miles later the car lost power only this time the fault light came on. No more power and light stayed on despite engine off/on.
The car was stuck back on the computer and the error pointed to a boost pressure sensor. £34 + VAT and replaced. So far so good but I'll keep you posted.......Wish me luck.

 

Im glad I found this thread because I have suffered the same issue with a UK spec '09 outlander warrior with only 47k on the clock. I drive 60 miles each way per day on motorway with 10miles of country lane either end. It only ever drops power on the motorway which is probably the worst place it can happen. Rebooting by turning ignition on and off clears the problem which can happen a couple of times per day and then not again for a week. Dealer professed that there was no problem, and no-one else had reported the same fault. Then they did find an error code and 'cleared' it but told me if it reoccurred it would only be solved by a new ECU
When it still dropped power they then claimed that it was suddenly a 'worn turbo' issue and quoted the national debt of a small african country to replace it. So I pointed out that a 'worn turbo' wouldnt be cleared by restarting and that the safe mode was clearly controlled by the ECU they got all defensive so I decided I would find another dealer.
I just emailed them a link to this thread as a reply to their original email where they state there is no problem cc'd to Mitsubishi UK. It made me feel better even if it didnt solve the issue. Anyone know a decent garage near swindon and is it just a sensor issue??

 

hi all. As per my previous post, If the fault code stored is for overboost the chances are its in the turbo. The car will lose power until its restarted because the ecu is preventing further damage to the engine caused by overboosting. The problem hasnt gone away just because when restarting the car drives normal again. Once you call for power the boost sensor reads too much pressure once more and you're off again. Unfortunetly many garages/dealers will plump for the boost sensor because its cheap and very easy to fix, but it is seldom the problem as there isn't much to go wrong with them. If your garage changed the turbo FOC the chances are they only changed the turbine cartridge as these are cheaper (about £200) but as per my photo the turbine cartridge comes away from the main housing which then in turn houses the vv mechanism. Using a mechanical actuator controlled by the ecu the vanes are opened and closed depending upon how much boost is required. So if your vanes are stuck you will have too little boost at lower revs (no fault for under boost) but then too much boost in the higher revs as the vanes can't open enough to allow boosting air to bypass the turbo main vanes. Hence then the boost sensor recognises too much pressure in the inlet manifold and shuts it all down until you restart the car. So fix this and you'll have no overboost and better still more power in the normal rev band. If your vehicle is experiencing this problem you can follow my instructins in my previous post or we can fix it for you. we are in gloucester so not far from swindon. I won't put a link on or a telephone number in case admin think this is an advert which it isnt. But if you would like us to help search autovalue3 in gloucester.