outlander 2.0 turbo diesel engine ---loss of power
#61
12-12-2013, 08:15 AM
Once more my Lancer lost power. Engine off/on and fine.
Weird thing is that this has only ever happened in the morning and once the engine has been "reset" its fine for days/weeks. Makes no sense. Surely if (and I don't doubt your expertise) the vanes were sticking then they would stick regularly? Is that not sensible or am I just being daft?
Its almost like as Dennis has mentioned a build of carbon or some deposit, settling over time and causing the occasional hiccup - very annoying hiccup of course. Start the engine, clog, restart and clears?! Still annoyed and confused.
When I had the error light on and the car was running like a tractor I also tried keeping the revs high (in this case about 2000rpm to keep the turbo kicking in) and may just be hope, but it seemed to run ok.
Is it worth putting a fuel additive in to clear any potential clogging/blockage?
At a loss but grateful for any advice?
Thanks.
Weird thing is that this has only ever happened in the morning and once the engine has been "reset" its fine for days/weeks. Makes no sense. Surely if (and I don't doubt your expertise) the vanes were sticking then they would stick regularly? Is that not sensible or am I just being daft?
Its almost like as Dennis has mentioned a build of carbon or some deposit, settling over time and causing the occasional hiccup - very annoying hiccup of course. Start the engine, clog, restart and clears?! Still annoyed and confused.
When I had the error light on and the car was running like a tractor I also tried keeping the revs high (in this case about 2000rpm to keep the turbo kicking in) and may just be hope, but it seemed to run ok.
Is it worth putting a fuel additive in to clear any potential clogging/blockage?
At a loss but grateful for any advice?
Thanks.
#62
12-13-2013, 02:35 AM
Hi. Sadly a fuel additive will not work as it won't reach the carbon deposits in the vv mechanism. It may be that this is not your fault reason but it certainly was mine and is very common. If you look at the pic I posted you can see the carbon deposit s on mine and this is just the surface the actual moving part is out of site. There is perhaps a way of checking if this is your fault though. If you look at the turbo unit on the car you will see in the centre of it a sort of push rod device with pipe(s) going into it. At the other end on the turbo it is connected to a small lever. This is what opens and shuts the variable vanes. If you disconnect this at the turbo end (a small circlip... don't lose it!) You should then be able to move the lever on the turbo very freely and without restriction about 2 to 3 cm. Any restriction or smaller movement and that's your problem.
#63
12-24-2013, 12:02 PM
Hi guys, I am looking for some help. I have a 2012 outlander 2.2 diesel and stay in Scotland in the uk. My car has 22000 miles on it. So basically when I put the pedal to the floor for a fast acceleration as soon as the car gets to between 2500 and 3000 revs it starts to cough and splutter. I can take my foot off the gas slightly and it will begin to accelerate. Now it first did this in march and then stopped just as I was driving into the garage (typical). Well it's started doing it again and has been for the last week. I'm going to phone the garage on the 27th dec to get it booked in but does anyone have any ideas what it could be as I think I'll get fobbed off. I should mention that there is no lights or anything.
All the best to everyone and merry xmas
Greig
All the best to everyone and merry xmas
Greig
#64
12-25-2013, 05:20 AM
The only solution in my opinion is to sue massively the Mitsubishi company.
I do not know if the same problem occurs with other car companies.
From Greece for example, while there are several cars with the same problem, only I am appear here. Finally understand the magnitude of the problem.
I do not know if the same problem occurs with other car companies.
From Greece for example, while there are several cars with the same problem, only I am appear here. Finally understand the magnitude of the problem.
Last edited by koraspan; 12-25-2013 at 05:27 AM.
#65
01-11-2014, 02:49 PM
Big Meg
Did you ever get this sorted? I just bought a 2008 2lt Outlander with 71kms. Had it 2 two days and loss of power from 2000 revs up. It was like that for a week, coughing and splutting, loss of power, higher than usual fuel consumption etc. Ive it booked into the garage on Monday next but suddenly, driving on motorway this afternoon, the power came back and the coughing/spluttering virutally disappeared. Its going to make a liar out of me on Monday
Did you ever get this sorted? I just bought a 2008 2lt Outlander with 71kms. Had it 2 two days and loss of power from 2000 revs up. It was like that for a week, coughing and splutting, loss of power, higher than usual fuel consumption etc. Ive it booked into the garage on Monday next but suddenly, driving on motorway this afternoon, the power came back and the coughing/spluttering virutally disappeared. Its going to make a liar out of me on Monday
#66
01-12-2014, 04:32 AM
Barnnybuddyb
Yes, it's fixed. So I had to take in twice as the first time it stopped losing power and they thought I was mad. But within a day it was doing it again so I took it back and this time it lost power under hard acceleration. It turns out it was a blocked fuel filter even although it was only 4k since it was changed. Anyway it's fixed now. Hope this helps.
Yes, it's fixed. So I had to take in twice as the first time it stopped losing power and they thought I was mad. But within a day it was doing it again so I took it back and this time it lost power under hard acceleration. It turns out it was a blocked fuel filter even although it was only 4k since it was changed. Anyway it's fixed now. Hope this helps.
#68
02-19-2014, 12:33 AM
TROUBLESHOOTING
If you think your vehicle might have a turbo-related problem, stop before you replace because turbo damage can often be a symptom of an underlying problem rather than the cause itself.
TROUBLESHOOTING
A lack of power, noisy performance or excessive smoke or oil consumption could result from a faulty fuel injection system, restricted or blocked air filters, a damaged exhaust system or a lubrication problem.
The causes for turbo damages usually fall into the following four categories:
FOREIGN OBJECTS
Turbo wheel damage, caused by small objects entering the turbine or compressor housing at high speed, leading to imbalance.
LACK OF LUBRICATION
Turbo fatigue cracking and material transfer created by metal friction and high temperatures as a result of oil inlet supply restrictions, incorrect gasket placement and use of liquid gaskets or poor quality lubricants.
OIL CONTAMINATION
Turbo bearing system damage caused by a high concentration of carbon suspended in oil, created by extended oil change intervals or poor maintenance. Bearing damage caused by a steel shot suspended in oil following a major engine overhaul.
OVERSPEED AND EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURE
Turbo damage caused by working beyond its designed parameters or outside the vehicle manufacturer’s specification. Maintenance problems, engine malfuction or unauthorized performance upgrades can push turbo rotating speeds beyond its operating limits, causing fatigue failure of compressor and turbine wheels.
CHECK LIST FOR TROUBLESHOOTING
LACK OF POWER
Check that filter, hoses and pipes are clean and in good condition
Check that the fuel injection system is in good condition and correctly adjusted
Check that the exhaust system, including catalyst and DPF, is not blocked or damaged
NOISY PERFORMANCE
Check that the pipework and support brackets are not loose or damaged and that the connections are good
Check for any leakages or cracks in the intercooler
EXCESSIVE SMOKE OR OIL CONSUMPTION
Check that air filters are not restricted or blocked
Check that engine oil specifications strictly correspond to car manufacturer's recommendations
Check that the oil drain pipe is clean and not restricted
Check for excessive pressure in engine crankcase and correct function of engine breather system
Check that hoses and joints are in good condition
Check for lubrication problems in engine block if oil or carbon deposits are found on exhaust manifolds or in the turbine
If you think your vehicle might have a turbo-related problem, stop before you replace because turbo damage can often be a symptom of an underlying problem rather than the cause itself.
TROUBLESHOOTING
A lack of power, noisy performance or excessive smoke or oil consumption could result from a faulty fuel injection system, restricted or blocked air filters, a damaged exhaust system or a lubrication problem.
The causes for turbo damages usually fall into the following four categories:
FOREIGN OBJECTS
Turbo wheel damage, caused by small objects entering the turbine or compressor housing at high speed, leading to imbalance.
LACK OF LUBRICATION
Turbo fatigue cracking and material transfer created by metal friction and high temperatures as a result of oil inlet supply restrictions, incorrect gasket placement and use of liquid gaskets or poor quality lubricants.
OIL CONTAMINATION
Turbo bearing system damage caused by a high concentration of carbon suspended in oil, created by extended oil change intervals or poor maintenance. Bearing damage caused by a steel shot suspended in oil following a major engine overhaul.
OVERSPEED AND EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURE
Turbo damage caused by working beyond its designed parameters or outside the vehicle manufacturer’s specification. Maintenance problems, engine malfuction or unauthorized performance upgrades can push turbo rotating speeds beyond its operating limits, causing fatigue failure of compressor and turbine wheels.
CHECK LIST FOR TROUBLESHOOTING
LACK OF POWER
Check that filter, hoses and pipes are clean and in good condition
Check that the fuel injection system is in good condition and correctly adjusted
Check that the exhaust system, including catalyst and DPF, is not blocked or damaged
NOISY PERFORMANCE
Check that the pipework and support brackets are not loose or damaged and that the connections are good
Check for any leakages or cracks in the intercooler
EXCESSIVE SMOKE OR OIL CONSUMPTION
Check that air filters are not restricted or blocked
Check that engine oil specifications strictly correspond to car manufacturer's recommendations
Check that the oil drain pipe is clean and not restricted
Check for excessive pressure in engine crankcase and correct function of engine breather system
Check that hoses and joints are in good condition
Check for lubrication problems in engine block if oil or carbon deposits are found on exhaust manifolds or in the turbine
#69
03-02-2014, 09:21 AM
Gents
Please will you try out what I mentioned in my last post, I can't promise anything but for the sake of 10 minutes work it's worth a try. A useful clue maybe , before you remove anything, look down between the rad and the engine left of centre and find some rubber pipes, is there oil or sticky oil residue on them? Put your hand in..cold switched-off engine...are the pipes sticky, is it oily? Then the coupling I'm whittering on about may be leaking and this will give fluctuating turbo pressure which causes problems.
Please will you try out what I mentioned in my last post, I can't promise anything but for the sake of 10 minutes work it's worth a try. A useful clue maybe , before you remove anything, look down between the rad and the engine left of centre and find some rubber pipes, is there oil or sticky oil residue on them? Put your hand in..cold switched-off engine...are the pipes sticky, is it oily? Then the coupling I'm whittering on about may be leaking and this will give fluctuating turbo pressure which causes problems.
#70
04-14-2014, 10:51 AM
Hello fellows,
I am new here and registered because of the problem reported in this thread. I have 2009 Mits. Lancer 2.0 DI-D Sportback and basically am experiencing the same problem as many of you do. Occasionally (1 time out of 5 approx), when I start the engine and start hitting the acceleration pedal during first 2 minutes it might happen that upon developing speed the car suddenly drops the speed, goes into so called "limp mode" as if in neutral gear. Then I have to let the acceleration pedal go and press it once again - the car reacts and drives as nothing had ever happened. Once this happens, it does not repeat during the journey. As I said it happens only while the engine is cold - 1 or 2 minutes from the start. I went to the official Mitsubishi auto repair center, they saw two errors: 1) Turbo overboost controller (or something like that, sorry, not an expert in cars) 2) EGR valve. I checked the car in another repair center, it saw same errors. First thing I did was - EGR valve was cleaned up. Did not help. Secondly, my turbo was taken out and inspected - it was also cleaned up, calibrated, they told me that it was in perfect condition. I thought my problem will be gone. Oh boy, I was wrong. Then I started studying forums in my native language and also English language and was surprised how many people have this problem. However, the strangest thing was that nobody is 100 % sure what causes this problem.
I shall try to summarize my study. Most possible causes can be: 1) faulty EGR valve (perhaps needs replacement as cleaning it out might not help); 2) faulty turbo; 3) faulty turbo pressure sensor; 4) faulty fuel pump; 5) loosened pipes which intakes air and this causes problems with pressure in the turbo; 6) catalyst might need cleaning out.
Anyway, my fellows, perhaps someone knows what I should do next? I am tired of wasting my time and money on garage experts that are trying to fix this issue, however, none of them are sure what might cause it. I believe it might possibly be loosened pipes that need some tightening or turbo pressure sensor error. In most cases I have studied, replacement of EGR valve / Turbo did not help at all.
This problem is driving me mad, started thinking about selling the car, however, I love everything about it except this problem. Moreover, another owner would have this problem and I would feel guilty for selling a faulty vehicle. Anyway, I still have determination to solve the issue. By the way, I noticed that the problem we are talking about might be two types - to some owners the speed of the car drops to some extent or the car enters into "limp mode" and if you do nothing it just stops.
Hope to find the true reason for this vehicle misbehavior which would help also many other owners on the planet. Did not want to create another thread for Lancer owners as this probably is a common problem for Mitsubishi DI-D engine models.
So, any ideas? What should I do next?
Thank you in advance!
I am new here and registered because of the problem reported in this thread. I have 2009 Mits. Lancer 2.0 DI-D Sportback and basically am experiencing the same problem as many of you do. Occasionally (1 time out of 5 approx), when I start the engine and start hitting the acceleration pedal during first 2 minutes it might happen that upon developing speed the car suddenly drops the speed, goes into so called "limp mode" as if in neutral gear. Then I have to let the acceleration pedal go and press it once again - the car reacts and drives as nothing had ever happened. Once this happens, it does not repeat during the journey. As I said it happens only while the engine is cold - 1 or 2 minutes from the start. I went to the official Mitsubishi auto repair center, they saw two errors: 1) Turbo overboost controller (or something like that, sorry, not an expert in cars) 2) EGR valve. I checked the car in another repair center, it saw same errors. First thing I did was - EGR valve was cleaned up. Did not help. Secondly, my turbo was taken out and inspected - it was also cleaned up, calibrated, they told me that it was in perfect condition. I thought my problem will be gone. Oh boy, I was wrong. Then I started studying forums in my native language and also English language and was surprised how many people have this problem. However, the strangest thing was that nobody is 100 % sure what causes this problem.
I shall try to summarize my study. Most possible causes can be: 1) faulty EGR valve (perhaps needs replacement as cleaning it out might not help); 2) faulty turbo; 3) faulty turbo pressure sensor; 4) faulty fuel pump; 5) loosened pipes which intakes air and this causes problems with pressure in the turbo; 6) catalyst might need cleaning out.
Anyway, my fellows, perhaps someone knows what I should do next? I am tired of wasting my time and money on garage experts that are trying to fix this issue, however, none of them are sure what might cause it. I believe it might possibly be loosened pipes that need some tightening or turbo pressure sensor error. In most cases I have studied, replacement of EGR valve / Turbo did not help at all.
This problem is driving me mad, started thinking about selling the car, however, I love everything about it except this problem. Moreover, another owner would have this problem and I would feel guilty for selling a faulty vehicle. Anyway, I still have determination to solve the issue. By the way, I noticed that the problem we are talking about might be two types - to some owners the speed of the car drops to some extent or the car enters into "limp mode" and if you do nothing it just stops.
Hope to find the true reason for this vehicle misbehavior which would help also many other owners on the planet. Did not want to create another thread for Lancer owners as this probably is a common problem for Mitsubishi DI-D engine models.
So, any ideas? What should I do next?
Thank you in advance!