Mitsubishi Outlander 2.0 DID Warrior
I was having the loss of power problems that are popular with VNT turbo chargers , not just in VW derived engines but in all VNTs .
Hitting 65 to 70 in 6 the gear on inclines brought on limp mode , turning the key off then back on clears the problem but do this 3 times on same journey and it illuminated the CEL.
Searching the web I came across the Mr Muscles oven cleaner procedure and gave it a go, wich took around 5hrs in total the oven cleaner killed off the turbo and the car would not run at all.
I ordered a remanufactured turbo and fitted it 9.5 hr's laying on top of engine and working
Mostly by feel I now have the power and smoothness that was lacking and I now enjoy my outlander again


Be very careful if trying the oven cleaner it's only for turbo's that have dirty vnt vanes not ones on it's last leggs

 

Hi all my 2.2 diamond has the same issue as detailed in these posts.
it will throw the engine light on with the P0234 overboost code but only on long journeys at high speed. local back and forth to work is ok and will not throw the code.
does anyone know if the turbo variable vane issue would be the same with the 2.2 PSA engine? it would make sense to me as the low speed power/pickup is not as good as it used to be but once its wound up it has plenty of power.

is removal of the turbo on the 2.2 just as much of a pain in the ****
many thanks for your input

 

hi guys- i have a 2009 outlander with 135 on the clock- just bought it from th auction. it seemed fine just put it through an mot and went through perfectly. however the first and second and third gear seem to be very slow and it doesnt accelerate much, maybe loss of power but i mean i can rev up to 4000 rpm in second gear and it does get to 40in second but seems slow- not sure if these cars drive that way? also upon starting the car revs from 800 to 1200 and then tens mins to cool down then goes to around 600. is this normal? i need help never driven one of these before so have not a clue. also checked the air flow and egr valve or what ever its called and supposedly they are new. any ideas? sorry for the English :s

 

MY 2007 outlander 2.0 did invite is now playing up and seems to be getting worse, I can be driving uphill or accelerating and it goes into limp mode! I have just had the fly wheel come loose and destroy my clutch, so feel like i have bought a dud!!

After reading this forum there seems to be no real answer to this?
Has anyone actually had success fixing the problem and what did they do?
I have read else where that a high build up of paint residue on a wire along with years of driving can cause this issue .
I have pasted the quote i read below ,
("High resistance on pin 7 connector ZB115. Used multi-meter to check resistance of connector B115 to ECM connector B112. Load tested circuit in question. Ok. Found high resistance caused by insecure ground at ECM due to high paint build-up. Cleaned ground and re-tested. Ok.") -- so if you show that to a Mitsubishi dealership, they should be able to to locate the wire.

Any help or thoughts on this?

 

Yes I too have suffered the loss of power. Under hard acceleration the Turbo seemed to switch off , only when the ignition was turned off and on did it reset. I followed the advice of changing the o ring on the air intake ( inter cooler) . This so far has sorted the problem , however when I removed the air intake hose I found some oil in it. Not good me thinks. Possible Turbo seals wearing. Doh!

 

Hi my turbo doesn't switch back on its constantly slow and there is no black smoke 😕 completely stuck

 

My first post on this was 15 months ago and turned out to be an unrelated problem. Since then though, Ive experienced most of the problems described throughout this thread: Engine fault light coming on following a stall, loss of power (limp mode) which seems to kick in when doing a constant 100kmh speed on motorway (suddenly loses power and can be reset by turning off and on the engine). Heres where I am at the moment:
(1) initial fault read either (a) faulty turbo pressure sensor or (b) faulty turbo
(2) Garage had a look to see if they changed the sensor first, would the problem rectify itself but when he looked at the turbo, he quickly decided it was shot and needed replacement (reconditioned turbo replacement was c €750 incl labour and 6 months warranty on the part plus about €75 for the sensor)
(3) Having replaced the above, car went into limp mode again with engine warning light following stall about 2 months after the turbo and sensor was replaced. The current diagnosis is that there is another engine management sensor (sorry, dont know the technical name for the part) which controls acceleration, fluid pressures, brake pressures etc which needs to be replaced. This is apparently a separate and unconnected fault to the initial turbo problems. Mechanic has secured a used sensor for replacement for about €80 and it will be fitted shortly.

My Outlander is 2lt DID, year 2008, approx 65k miles.

Hope it helps

 

Hi All,

Just a quick point to make about limp mode, I bought my 2008 outlander warrior about two years ago. Initially all was good until we got onto the motorway and we experienced limp mode for the first time. We got it checked as you do and the garage found the usual turbo over boost type faults etc.

To cut a long story short, check the intake for the air filter right at the front under the bonnet (it's a black piece of plastic that protects the bonnet lock and frame but also provides a hole for air to flow into the air filter intake tube.

I found that on my outlander this hole was on the wrong side and therefore the turbo would choke at high speeds due to a lack of sufficient air flow causing the limp mode.

I simply cut a new hole to allow air flow and I've never had a problem since! It's seems 'too easy' a fix I know, but it's an easy thing to miss if the car runs fine at lower speeds which mine did!

Hope this helps.

Regards.

 

Gents (and ladies if there are any here).

I have a loss off power that comes only when driving above 80km/h on 6th gear and full throttle. I've read this strip thorough and good. It seems that there can be quite many different faults, but I am leaning towards either a ECU problem or my turbo vanes being stuck. Although I don't know if my Grandis 2,0L DID from 2007 has a turbo with variable vanes.
The ECU fault I'm thinking of because I get a reading of 1 BAR pressure in the intake even if the engine isn't running. Also at the point of overboost the reading is almost 2 BAR.
I have changed the MAP sensor twice and the incoming voltage is 5 as it should. Also I've tested a new air mass sensor, checked all hoses and fuel lines (filters, fuel cooler, intercooler... you name it i checked it) but the problem still occurs every time at 6th gear and foot down.

Any ideas..?
Maybe I should drive the Mitsubishi on the ice and wait for spring...

 

same loss of power problems as everybody here with occasional cel and over boost fault...
.. to try to fix I have put on new turbo, new variable vanes, new egr valve, new maf sensor, tested turbo actuator, checked all hoses tight, checked cat not blocked, new air filter.
And it's still doing it just the same!!
Next on the to do list is fuel filter, boost sensor, look for dodgy earths, vacuum hoses, emission control valve...
Anyone suggest any other things i could try ?