I'll say during the summer time, I feel like the Outlander does not have much character. I prefer to run around in my Ranger. Things are a bit stiffer and feels solid. Now I know the difference is body on frame vs uni-body...manual vs auto...bare bones vs a bit sporty...but that's what I like. The windows are just a bit too high to hang your arm out the window.

However, during the winter, the Outlander just has a bit better feel of safety, IMO.

I decided on the Outlander for safety and gas mileage...cosmetics doesn't seem to bother me. I paid 12.5k after trade-in for a 2 year old vehicle and I expect to drive it into the ground (maybe 10 more years?).

If someone really cares enough, you can go out and buy some spray-in foam. Spray that on the inside of your door and that should deaden some of the sounds.

 

CCERNST

I am a sucker for punishment I had 2 gen1 and 2 gen2. Still have one 2000 in the driveway. Decent little car never gave me any grief but I would not like to crash one.
I think there is to much work done on perceived quality rather than real quality. What is a vehicle for if not to stay alive on a road full of 16 years old high on testosterone.

I'm 60, retired P&WC Field service rep. with a very good sense of mechanical quality in fact I am a trouble shooter by nature and I can find a vehicle weak point fast what I hate is cars manufacturer that work harder at hiding than fixing the problem (Toyota?).

Working on the customer perceived quality index is one major sin in my book.
Just go out and duel with the others to prove you are good.
But we are now a bunch of lazyboy drivers that prefer quiet ride rather than real drive it keep us away from being a driver.

But I guess I am too old to change the world so I will continue to be amazed by my truck that think he is superman.

P.S don't ask your wife if you have design defect it could be sobering. I did...

 

Outlander GT starts at $28,500 (only BMW X6M, an $80K car is ahead of the GT), Acura RDX at $32500 (may I add, GT comes better equipped at the base trim than a base RDX). Considering Mitsubishi is a lot more flexible when it comes to pricing (Acura/Honda not so much), you can get the GT for around $27,000 without much problem. So the difference in price is almost $5K for a car with similar power, better handling, more interior room, more fuel efficient, better warranty, but I guess the closing of doors doesn't sound as solid. Actually Claude_A touched a very good point, companies these days try to sell perceived quality over the actual long term quality. Everyone is cheapening out on materials, from Kia to Mercedes.

 

I don't have any rattles or quality issues with my 08. The only annoying this is that at speeds above 120km/h the vents almost whistle depending on which ones are open, and pressure builds up as you go faster when the A/C is on to external air.
I have no idea what door sound issues people are referring to. It sounds the same as my current gen Lexus GS when you close the door. I don't see what heavier doors achieve except a higher centre of gravity. Some high end cars make no sound when closing the door, but create an artificial slamming sound.

As for handling, I find it to be amazing for a SUV. I've taken turns in it that would roll any body on frame SUV....the 2010 XLS/GT with AFD slalom tests say it all (posted a couple posts before mine).

 

OP. do you realize that the Outlander and Dodge Journey are basically the same car, except the Journey (before 2011 model year) comes with crappier engine and suspension?

 

heard the same thing, that both cars share some sheet metal. but the outlander is much better car. yes the engine suspension are different but so is the tranny and 4wd system and electrical, things that make the outlander a much better car.

 

While the base platform was co-developed in 2005, they are in no way "basically the same car." In fact, it isn't even close....I believe no single part is shared between the two except for the odd relay or small part.

 

I have no major rattles in my 07 XLS with 53k miles, feels pretty solid going down the road. My Accord and Prius both have more rattles than my Outlander, and the Prius is a 2010 model.

I still don't think there is anything out there that's better than the Outlander in terms of handling, fuel economy, features, warranty and price. I paid less than $29k for mine, loaded with Nav, leather, 4WD, excellent sound system, DVD, bluetooth, awesome fold-down rear hatch, 7 passenger seating, 6 speed paddle shift tranny, PZEV V6 engine, sporty handling, HID headlights, etc etc. What's out there with those features at that price?

 

Drivetrain is completely different...

Journey is AWD ...Outlander is 4WD Lock optional...not even close...

 

The badge on the back says "4WD" but the Outlander isn't 4WD in the traditional sense.

http://www.rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/...D-autoAWD.html

All-Wheel Control with Advanced 4-Wheel Drive

The 2007 Outlander gives the driver a choice among vehicle drive modes. Standard front-wheel drive is augmented by the Active Skid and Traction Control (ASTC) system, which includes traction control for better grip on slippery surfaces.
With the optional 4-wheel drive system, the driver uses a drive-mode dial on the center console to select "FWD" for best fuel economy; with "4WD Auto" mode selected, the system uses a rear-mounted electronically controlled transfer clutch to automatically and seamlessly route more power to the rear wheels, depending on driving and road surface conditions. The driver can freely change the drive mode at any time.

Two 4WD Modes
When "4WD Auto" mode is selected, the Outlander 4WD system always sends some power to the rear wheels, automatically increasing the amount under full-throttle acceleration. The coupling transfers up to 40 percent of available torque to the rear wheels under full-throttle acceleration, and this is reduced to 25 percent over 40 mph. At steady cruising speeds, up to 15 percent of available torque is sent to the rear wheels. At low speeds through tight corners, coupling torque is reduced, providing a smoother feel through the corner.

For driving in particularly challenging conditions, such as snow, the driver can select "4WD Lock" mode. In Lock mode, the system still apportions front and rear torque automatically, but enables greater power transfer to the rear wheels. For example, when accelerating on an upgrade, the coupling will transfer more torque to the rear wheels immediately, helping to ensure that all four wheels get traction. In contrast, an automatic on-demand part-time system would allow front wheel slippage before transferring power, which could hamper acceleration.

In dry conditions, 4WD Lock mode places priority on performance. More torque is directed to the rear wheels than in 4WD Auto mode to provide greater power off the line, better control when accelerating on snowy or loose surfaces, and enhanced stability at high speeds. Rear wheel torque transfer is increased by 50 percent over the amounts in 4WD Auto mode - meaning up to 60 percent of available torque is sent to the rear wheels under full-throttle acceleration on dry pavement. When in 4WD Lock mode, torque at the rear wheels is reduced by a smaller degree through corners than with 4WD Auto mode.

Drive Mode: 2WD
Overview of Control: Distributes all torque to front wheels
Benefit: Best fuel economy

Drive Mode: 4WD Auto
Overview of Control: Distributes variable torque to rear wheels depending on accelerator pedal position and front-to-rear wheel speed difference
Benefit: Delivers the optimal amount of torque for driving conditions

Drive Mode: 4WD Lock
Overview of Control: Delivers 1.5 times more torque to the rear wheels than 4WD mode
Benefit: Increases off-the-line traction; provides greater high-speed stability and best performance on rough or slippery surfaces.