Alright, so I'm at 65,000 km right now and I haven't done the 45,000 KM service yet.

Reading the manual it says I need to change the Auto Transmission and change the Transfer Oil, and then check the rear axle. I have some questions.

1.) Changing the oil on the auto tranny seems fairly easy, by the sounds of it though most people say when they pull the hose they only get about 3.5 liters out, and nothing out of the drain plug after? Where is the rest of the oil? Doesn't the system hold just over 8 liters? How do you get the rest out? Is this accomplished by following the extra flush step?

2.) How much transmission J3 fluid should I buy, 8 L?

3.) Is there a filter that needs to be changed, it doesn't seem to mention it.

4.) Changing the transfer case oil seems easy as well, it says it is supposed to be level with the hole? Does this mean the vehicle should be level as well and i shouldn't use blocks? I don't think I can get under without using blocks though?

5.) How do I refill the transfer case?

6.) Is there differential oil that should be changed somewhere, I don't see it in the service manual.

7.) When does the rear axle oil get changed, I can't see it in my service manual anywhere? Or do you just check it and make sure its always at the right level?

8.) Should I be changing the gaskets on the plugs each time?

9.) What are the correct torque specs for all the plugs, I read somewhere the service manual is incorrect and you can strip it?

 

1) doing it that way, I got about 7qts total. not all the fluid will come out due to torque converter. Evidently, not all of the fluid resides in the sump, so it will only pump out about half the fluid or so. The way I did it, by the time the 2nd pumping is nearing done, you can see the fluid change color. By that time, nearly all the fluid is changed.
2) IMO, I'd buy 10. That way, in case there are any mishaps, you have extra. Then the next time you change it, just replenish what you had to 10L again. It won't go bad just sitting there.
3) There is no filter to change.
4) I have a set of four 4"x4" pieces of lumber I keep to raise the vehicle. I've found it is so much easier to just drive up on blocks than to jack the vehicle up...and you'll still be level.
5) First things first, remove the fill hole plug first. you don't want to drain your fluid if you can't get the fill plug out! next, I'd get an old school oil can that has a hand pump and a flexible neck. It makes quick work of changing that out. The Tcase is too high to just fill with the bottle. My '07 specs something like straight 80w. I used 75w90 Mobile1 and have had no issues.
6) Not sure what you mean here. The front differential is a part of the transmission. You know about the transfer case. There is a rear differential.
7) IMO, the rear differential gets changed at the same time as the transfer case. I did mine at 60k miles and felt that was long enough on the OEM fluid. I'm now at 138k miles and I'll be doing it again once it warms up a bit more.
8) There are no gaskets on the tcase/differential plugs.
9) Just a bit past snug. You are only holding back gear oil, which is pretty thick. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

Thanks, Ill have to go buy a couple things then.


So the front diff is part of the tranny and all I do is change the tranny oil right? As for the transfer case and rear diff, those are changed the same way, with the pump I take it? The severe service schedule says to change all of these fluids at 45,000 KM I think. I figure waiting to 60K Miles (100,000 KM) is pretty long?


The dealers here are nuts. The Diaqueen J3 in Edmonton is $24.99 / L, $100 for a 4 litre can and its only sold in 4 L cans so I have to buy 14 L. Is there a place to by this stuff on line for cheaper?

I called a couple dealers, the one said they just do a drain and fill, and said its best to do this ever 48,000 KM. Its a serviceable fluid so you don't have to replace it all and its best not to, so they only do 4 L. Its $200.00

Then I called another dealer and they do a complete flush, its $300.00

Do you have to worry about temperature when changing the oil? I know its supposed to be at a specific temp to check it?

 

For my transmission fluid, I change that every 45k miles. Both my local stealerships say the recommended 30k mile interval is too short. 45k mile is where I'm willing to change it. it is amazing if you put a drip on a white sheet of paper...then put a drip of fresh fluid. At 45k miles, it isn't burnt, but there is a stark difference.

Get a hold of Nesser here on the boards. He uses AMSOIL who has a compatible fluid. here int he states, the price is the same, so I stick with OEM. I think ENEOS (a Japanese fluid) is another fluid that is compatible with DiaQueen ATF-J2...not sure about J3...I find that at NAPA auto parts.

tcase and rear diff is easiest changed with a hand pump. Something like this guy: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/ima...ldOilPump1.jpg

 

Yeah, the 2011 uses J3, unfortunately amsoil doesn't have an equivalent. I called a dealership in another city to the south of me, they do a complete change as well, but they also quoted be $42.00 / L, $180 / gal.

These dealers make no sense at all. I spoke to my independent mechanic, and he referred me to a transmission shop he uses at times. They recommend just an oil dump and fill, changing only half the oil.

Frustrates me no one can give a straight consistent answer.

Thanks for your help.

 

Oh, and is it the bottom hose or top hose I disconnect? It shows the top house, but everywhere I have read says that ends up spurting it out of the cooler not the hose you disconnect? I assume because you want to get the fluid out of the cooler too?

 

all I remember, it is opposite of what the service manual states. THAT makes a mess!

 

Correct. No equivalent for J3 transmission fluid yet from AMSOIL. Also nothing for CVT's yet.

J2 spec is available with the ATL product.