i have a 96 montero with 3.5L . ive been restoring it and fixing it up. recently i had an issue where i turn the key to start it and no instrument lights would come on and you could hear a clicking/buzzing noise. it was intermitent and after 3 or 4 tries usually started. then one time it wouldnt start. turned out to be the starter. they replaced it ( i was out of town and had to have a dealership do it) .everything worked great for the next two days then on the way home it just died,everything. no dash lights, stopped running right on the interstate. theres nothing but headlights and fourways that work now.and wont start,no clicking , nothing.
any thoughts? i was thinking it was a wierd coincidence so maybe they didnt tighten something? but i cant find it. or maybe i was told it could be in the key switch?
thanks for any help. its older and i expect issues and quirks, as long as i can figure them out it's worth it because its a great SUV

 

Its a bummer when the truck you love misbehaves. Start by checking battery voltage and connections. Fuses and fusible links. You should also check if you are getting battery voltage at the starter.

 

it has a new battery,checked for proper voltage (also a new alternator) connections are good, couldnt find any blown fuses or links. but ill check the voltage to the starter as you suggested.thanks

 

i found the problem, or a problem. the ignition switch looks like it shorted out, when i unplugged the connector to check the switch i noticed one of the terminals (marked AM ?) was black and melted. damaging both the ignition switch and the connector. i ordered the parts but my worry is could this happen from a faulty switch or did somthing else cause this? also i checked the ignition fuse and noticed its a 30 amp but the manual calls for a 40 amp. i know if these numbers were reversed it could cause a problem but im surpiresed the switch melting didnt blow the fuse. any thoughts on other causes before i plug a new switch in?thanks

 

It would be ideal if you can test integrity of the wiring before installing the new ignition switch. Try to find electrical diagram for your model year, so that you would know where each wire goes and if it should have voltage or ground on it. By testing them with a test light you should be able to find out if any of the wires shorted out causing the burnt out switch. It is also possible that all wires are OK and it was just the failure of the switch that singed the wires nearby.

 

i replaced the switch and so far all is well.
another question, i will need to replace the valve cover gaskets and valve seals soon, they have the common leak issue and from research ive read you should replace all the intake plenum gaskets as well (plugs and wires also) but should i go a step further while everything is off and replace head gaskets? are they an issue? it has 150k

 

Some people may disagree, but i don't think you need to replace the head gaskets unless they are giving you trouble (i.e. they are blown). Replace the items you listed and you should be good to go for many more miles.

 

thats what i was thinking also,thanks.