One of the the DRL's on my 2010 Outlander XLS keeps burning out.

The right one is fine. The left is the culprit.

I'm using stock halogen bulbs as I thought I was having problems with several different LED bulbs, but it turns out to be an inherent flaw in the light housing.

Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot?

 

I took my 2010 Outlander GT to the dealership to get it fixed. Mitsubishi sent a recall letter.

 

I never received a letter for it unfortunately. Just logged into Mitsubishi Owners Services and see the following recalls for my car:

DUE TO A MANUFACTURING ERROR, THE ETACS ECU ON AFFECTED VEHICLES MAY CONTAIN COMPONENTS WITH A HIGH ELECTRICAL RESISTANCE. THIS CONDITION CAN RESULT IN VOLTAGE INSTABILITY, AND IN THE WORST CASE, THE VEHICLE COULD LOSE HEADLIGHTS, TAIL LIGHTS, AND/OR WINDSHIELD WIPER FUNCTIONALITY.

DUE TO A MANUFACTURING ERROR, THE SHAFT AND BEARING INSIDE THE FRONT BLOWER MOTOR MAY HAVE BEEN IMPROPERLY CENTERED, POTENTIALLY CAUSING PREMATURE WEAR AND REDUCED BLOWER PERFORMANCE. IF USE CONTINUES UNDER THIS CONDITION, THE SHAFT AND BEARING COULD ULTIMATELY SEIZE RESULTING IN TOTAL LOSS OF BLOWER PERFORMANCE.

Do you think the ETACS ECY replacement could be the problem?

 

I had the same problem, burning through bulbs in less than a week. Took it to the dealer and they said the ground wire was not attached properly. They drilled through the metal where the wire was attached and soldered to this stronger connection and it has worked flawlessly for at least six months.

Hope this helps.

 

That's the same letter I got. They replaced the ETACS and I haven't replaced the bulb since then.

 

Thank you everyone, will start with ETACS recall replacement, then go from there.

 

ETAC Recall completed - replaced the burnt out bulb

Noticed the light still did not work, there is problem with the ballast itself. If I position the socket just right, it works.

Bummer!

 

did you replace the ballast. I have the same problem.

 

My wife and I also have a 2010 XLS, but the Darytime Running Lights are 12-volt incandescent, which can be easily replaced with an off-the-shelf Sylvania 1156LL bulb.

I'm writing because our vehicle goes through the passenger-side DRL bulbs pretty frequently -- about 2 per year. Our vehicle has had the etacs recall completed years ago. The last time the light went out, I remove the bulb and there was not the usual black color or a broken filament. I checked continuity with a multi-meter and confirmed O ohms, so the filament was OK. I stuck the bulb back into the socket, but twisted the bulb a number of times back and forth. Sure enough, the bulb burned brightly, so there must have been something impeding good contact. Anyway, I'll be doing some additional twisting back and forth whenever I change bulbs.

While I'm typing, I am very interested in the following LEDs to replace the 1156:

The 1156 supposedly puts out about 450 lumens. The above supposedly puts out 650 lumens. Anybody tried the LEDs above and, if so, what do you think?

Thanks.

 

Yes, I replaced the ballast myself. Clipped off the existing ballast. All is well!