Hi everyone! I have a dearly loved 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS. She's performing (mostly) great after over 400,000km. In the last 2 years I've done a lot of suspension and wheel-related repairs, including new bearings (yes, making sure they were placed the right way). Most notably, all 4 wheel-sensors failed within a short time frame of each other. Replaced FR first, and it worked great. Then FR went, so I changed that. It worked for a very short time before coding out again, this time showing LR failure. So I changed the last two together (and let me tell you, the rear ones were HATEFUL to do!). Cleared codes and took her for a drive - and all codes came back. It will not reset or clear.

I'm thinking there must be an additional electronic issue going on somewhere else in the wiring harness? I have no experience at all assessing anything further than the part replacement. Any suggestions? Is this something I could repair myself, or at the very least diagnose to the point where I can bring it to a shop and tell them what needs to be done rather than have to pay the full amount of time it would take them to troubleshoot?

These are the codes I'm receiving (code reader descriptions, with manual description in brackets if different)
C100A abnormality FL wheel speed sensor circuit
C1015 abnormality FR wheel speed sensor circuit
C102B abnormality RR wheel speed sensor circuit
C1020 abnormality RL wheel speed sensor circuit
(these also returned as ABS codes on code reader)
C1043 ABS (abnormality in periodical signal for RL wheel speed sensor)

C1078 tire revolution range (tire turning malfunction)
C1621 yaw rating G sensor incorrect attachment (AWC Actuator protection 2)
U1427 dynamic range error identification (wheel speed sensor data malfunction)

In regards to these last 3, since the last code read I have replaced both front strut assemblies and sway bar links (I made the mistake of repairing the broken left strut and not replacing the other side, so when the right one failed it ultimately overstressed and broke the new one, so I just did both), and brought it into a shop to have the wheel alignment done professionally. Would these last 3 codes have been because of the broken springs, and would that and the alignment fix those? I don't have a reader myself so I can't clear the codes unless I pay at a shop, so don't want to try again until I think I have the issue resolved.

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

ok so I’m not entirely familiar with the tpms systems but I do know the GMC terrain when it’s sensor failed it has a specific procedure that has to be done to pair the new sensor to the onboard reader. This procedure actually has to be done every time the tires are rotated so that the system knows which sensor is in which position. I have a feeling you’re in the same boat.

i don’t know if there’s an at home procedure you can do but a type shop should be able to do it for you I just don’t know how much it’ll cost.

as for the last errors, I’m not sure if the broken suspension would cause them. last time I had a car throwing a yaw code it was actually an SRS issue (long story short I went through 5 SRS modules on a mini cooper trying to find one that had no codes cuz my scanner was not clearing them at all). Is your airbag light on when driving?

 

Reading the errors again, I would say your suspension failing possibly damaged the speed sensor for one or both wheels or possibly the wiring, or (best case scenario) you (or the shop) forgot to plug the speed sensor back in. Check those first see what you find then go from there.

 

Thank you for your reply! to reply to your second comment first - The front sensors were not working before the suspension failed, and I did make sure they were all plugged in and secured properly and they saw no stress during the replacement, so we can at least eliminate that. When the rear sensors were replaced later it coded immediately.

That is interesting about the GMC! I was very excited to check that out. Going through the service manual it looks like it's just a matter of deleting the DTC then driving to recalibrate, which is what we did. We tried several times but the codes kept coming back. While looking I did find the step-by-step to go through the entire wiring harness to check for faults, and it's loooong! I think I will most definitely have to wait until I can get back to my father's heavy duty mechanical shop (he's 7 hours away) to try progressive diagnosing, because I think the cost will add up real quick.

I hate electronics in were vehicles so very, very much! Part of the reason I want to keep this old girl so bad is I am terrified of all the computer tech in new vehicles - all I see is big money to fix when it fails. Especially from dealerships, OMG. While trying to source parts I had to call Mitsubishi a couple of times, and their prices are so insane my brain could not even comprehend it. I couldn't get quick struts locally in less than a week, so I tried calling the dealership. You could only buy springs and struts separately, and the cost for both parts was over 900$. Aftermarket quick strut? Less than 300$.

That's interesting about the SRS - I don't' think my airbag light is on, but now I'll have to go double check (because every other light is on, LOL).

Thanks again for the response.