Transfer case / gear oil change
#11
10-27-2010, 01:26 PM
Viscosity for engine and gear oils go are rated similarly for a multi-grade oil. The two ratings are based off of two temperatures. One at 40C and one at 100C. In this case, a 75w90 will be a 90 weight oil when it reaches the high temperature. At 40C it will get a 75 weight rating...for that temperature. due to the additives, it will be a thinner oil, which when the gears start turning, will lubricate sooner. So once a 75w90 and an 80w90 both get up to temperature...they'll flow at the same rate...ish.
For engine oils, it goes by the same principal. Our cars are spec'd for 5w20. At 100C, it is rated as a 20 weight oil for fluids at 100C. At 40C, the oil is rated as a 5 for fluids at 40C. Now, let's say you live up in Nome, Alaska and it gets really damn cold and you want a thinner oil when it is cold...so instead of finding a 5w10, you'll want a 0w20. The zero is the colder weight rating, the 20 being the hotter weight rating.
...at least that's my understanding of it.
For engine oils, it goes by the same principal. Our cars are spec'd for 5w20. At 100C, it is rated as a 20 weight oil for fluids at 100C. At 40C, the oil is rated as a 5 for fluids at 40C. Now, let's say you live up in Nome, Alaska and it gets really damn cold and you want a thinner oil when it is cold...so instead of finding a 5w10, you'll want a 0w20. The zero is the colder weight rating, the 20 being the hotter weight rating.
...at least that's my understanding of it.
#12
10-27-2010, 04:48 PM
yup
except the the lower temperature rating is flow at 0F or -18C.
Viscosity for engine and gear oils go are rated similarly for a multi-grade oil. The two ratings are based off of two temperatures. One at 40C and one at 100C. In this case, a 75w90 will be a 90 weight oil when it reaches the high temperature. At 40C it will get a 75 weight rating...for that temperature. due to the additives, it will be a thinner oil, which when the gears start turning, will lubricate sooner. So once a 75w90 and an 80w90 both get up to temperature...they'll flow at the same rate...ish.
For engine oils, it goes by the same principal. Our cars are spec'd for 5w20. At 100C, it is rated as a 20 weight oil for fluids at 100C. At 40C, the oil is rated as a 5 for fluids at 40C. Now, let's say you live up in Nome, Alaska and it gets really damn cold and you want a thinner oil when it is cold...so instead of finding a 5w10, you'll want a 0w20. The zero is the colder weight rating, the 20 being the hotter weight rating.
...at least that's my understanding of it.
For engine oils, it goes by the same principal. Our cars are spec'd for 5w20. At 100C, it is rated as a 20 weight oil for fluids at 100C. At 40C, the oil is rated as a 5 for fluids at 40C. Now, let's say you live up in Nome, Alaska and it gets really damn cold and you want a thinner oil when it is cold...so instead of finding a 5w10, you'll want a 0w20. The zero is the colder weight rating, the 20 being the hotter weight rating.
...at least that's my understanding of it.
#13
10-28-2010, 08:54 AM
Beating the dead horse
What bothers me is the specs according to ccernst say:
So when the transfer case fluid comes up to temperature it's running at a 90 weight instead of the specified 80 weight.
Why not use a lightweight oil in the transfer case - other than it costs now twice as much to do the job? The page below says this satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of SAE 75W80, 75W, 80W, and 85W, as well as SAE 30 and SAE 10W30 motor oil.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=40&pcid=4
How much difference is there between SAE80 and 90? I'm sure the losses would be gained back by the multiweight with all the cold startups in Canada but a few things bug me:
OIL GEAR LightWeight 75W80 GL-5 (1qt / 0.95L)
OIL GEAR 75W90 GL-5 (1qt / 0.95L)
GL-5 SAE80 for the transfer case and Hypoid GL-5 SAE90 for the rear differential.
Why not use a lightweight oil in the transfer case - other than it costs now twice as much to do the job? The page below says this satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of SAE 75W80, 75W, 80W, and 85W, as well as SAE 30 and SAE 10W30 motor oil.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=40&pcid=4
How much difference is there between SAE80 and 90? I'm sure the losses would be gained back by the multiweight with all the cold startups in Canada but a few things bug me:
- Fluid volumes for either the transfer and the rear differential is ~500ml, I can't find the other volume in the service manual.
Most oils are sold by the quart which is just under the 950ml. Do I need one or two bottles to do the job? - I checked AMSOIL's website for fluids for the Outlander. They didn't spec a transmission, transfer case or differential fluid even though they have similar products as red line. They stared the transmission fluid and said to use DIA Queen J2 only so they seem somewhat knowledgeable. I wonder why they are not suggesting their own gear oils.
- Would using a heavier weight oil in the transfer case cause problems? What about warranty? Out of warranty isn't a big deal but I've still got 8 years to go on the powertrain.
OIL GEAR LightWeight 75W80 GL-5 (1qt / 0.95L)
OIL GEAR 75W90 GL-5 (1qt / 0.95L)
#14
10-28-2010, 03:30 PM
I bought used, so the only warranty I have left is paint, I believe. woohoo.
you are right, the transfer case does spec 80 weight and so would be putting a thicker oil in than spec. I doubt there'd be much in the way of performance degradation...but again, that only comes into play when the temperature goes higher. The biggest benefit I see is that I only have to remember one type of oil to buy next time. When using two grades, you gotta keep track of what goes in where.
I don't think a heavier oil when at temperature will cause any problems. At BobIsTheOilGuy forums, they always say there is no problem using a thicker oil, but you may run into problems using a thinner oil...in terms of wear. When cold, you are still starting at the same weight.
Advance Auto says that both quantities are .55 quarts....and they are sold in quart bottles....so go for two.
you are right, the transfer case does spec 80 weight and so would be putting a thicker oil in than spec. I doubt there'd be much in the way of performance degradation...but again, that only comes into play when the temperature goes higher. The biggest benefit I see is that I only have to remember one type of oil to buy next time. When using two grades, you gotta keep track of what goes in where.
I don't think a heavier oil when at temperature will cause any problems. At BobIsTheOilGuy forums, they always say there is no problem using a thicker oil, but you may run into problems using a thinner oil...in terms of wear. When cold, you are still starting at the same weight.
Advance Auto says that both quantities are .55 quarts....and they are sold in quart bottles....so go for two.
#15
10-28-2010, 10:32 PM
Synthetics
Check the manual in the capacities section for the quantities. One was .5 liters (or quarts) and the other was .53 liters (or quarts). Using a multiweight oil gives gives better protection at the low/high temperature extremes. Single weight oil is often regular dino based oil because it's harder to get the wide extremes with it.
If you have a problem with the diff or transfer case, i doubt they're going to do a blackstone analysis of what you are using for fluid to deny warranty. As long as you fill it with a quality oil, it'll last the warranty period easily anyway.
I bought two quarts and have most of one left over. probably won't need it for another 10 years.
If you have a problem with the diff or transfer case, i doubt they're going to do a blackstone analysis of what you are using for fluid to deny warranty. As long as you fill it with a quality oil, it'll last the warranty period easily anyway.
I bought two quarts and have most of one left over. probably won't need it for another 10 years.
I bought used, so the only warranty I have left is paint, I believe. woohoo.
you are right, the transfer case does spec 80 weight and so would be putting a thicker oil in than spec. I doubt there'd be much in the way of performance degradation...but again, that only comes into play when the temperature goes higher. The biggest benefit I see is that I only have to remember one type of oil to buy next time. When using two grades, you gotta keep track of what goes in where.
I don't think a heavier oil when at temperature will cause any problems. At BobIsTheOilGuy forums, they always say there is no problem using a thicker oil, but you may run into problems using a thinner oil...in terms of wear. When cold, you are still starting at the same weight.
Advance Auto says that both quantities are .55 quarts....and they are sold in quart bottles....so go for two.
you are right, the transfer case does spec 80 weight and so would be putting a thicker oil in than spec. I doubt there'd be much in the way of performance degradation...but again, that only comes into play when the temperature goes higher. The biggest benefit I see is that I only have to remember one type of oil to buy next time. When using two grades, you gotta keep track of what goes in where.
I don't think a heavier oil when at temperature will cause any problems. At BobIsTheOilGuy forums, they always say there is no problem using a thicker oil, but you may run into problems using a thinner oil...in terms of wear. When cold, you are still starting at the same weight.
Advance Auto says that both quantities are .55 quarts....and they are sold in quart bottles....so go for two.
#16
10-31-2010, 10:03 PM
Hey TCP, I did the transfer case without a problem. I ended up using an oil squirt gun to get the oil in there. My fluid wasn't too bad. I could still see through it a bit as it poured, but I did see a good amount of metal sludge on the magnetic plug. I'm glad I changed it.
I moved on to the rear differential and wasn't 100% sure of the drain plug. The most likely plug didn't have a hex head on it, but looked like an allen wrench should have been used. do you remember much about that?
I moved on to the rear differential and wasn't 100% sure of the drain plug. The most likely plug didn't have a hex head on it, but looked like an allen wrench should have been used. do you remember much about that?
#17
10-31-2010, 11:52 PM
my memory sucks
but a 10mm allen wrench sticks in my mind. there should only be two plugs on it. one up top and one down. whatever it takes to open them. I would always open the top first. That way if you get the bottom open, you are guaranteed to be able to refill it.
#19
01-22-2015, 12:41 PM
I know this is an old thread but since my question is related figured I'd continue it rather than make a new thread...
Anyway, I'm wondering if the viscous coupler in my AWD 2005 model makes a difference in what fluids are acceptable? I was going to use a GL4 & 5 75W90, with no limited slip additives, in the manual transmission, transfer case, and rear differential (Motul Gear 300 75W90). Acceptable? Don't want to buy multiple products if I can avoid it and I can use this stuff in both my other car and my motorcycle.
The manual specs...
Transmission: API GL-4 SAE 75W-85W, 75W90
Transfer case: API GL-5 SAE 90
Rear diff: API GL-5 SAE75W, SAE80W, SAE 90, 80W-90, 85W-90
If anyone knows of a "how to" posted somewhere showing the locations of all the drain/fill plugs, I'd appreciate a link to that, as well.
Anyway, I'm wondering if the viscous coupler in my AWD 2005 model makes a difference in what fluids are acceptable? I was going to use a GL4 & 5 75W90, with no limited slip additives, in the manual transmission, transfer case, and rear differential (Motul Gear 300 75W90). Acceptable? Don't want to buy multiple products if I can avoid it and I can use this stuff in both my other car and my motorcycle.
The manual specs...
Transmission: API GL-4 SAE 75W-85W, 75W90
Transfer case: API GL-5 SAE 90
Rear diff: API GL-5 SAE75W, SAE80W, SAE 90, 80W-90, 85W-90
If anyone knows of a "how to" posted somewhere showing the locations of all the drain/fill plugs, I'd appreciate a link to that, as well.
#20
01-24-2015, 07:52 AM
I also had to change my gear oil in the front and rear cause I found that I tore off the vent hose and water or something got into the oil and contaminated it. I removed both pumpkin covers while the truck was on jack stands and in neutral. I sprayed one can for each of carb cleaner while spinning the tire to move the gears around. I got quite a bit of crap out of it too. Then I let them dry out and refilled with new gear spec gear oil. That was 5 years ago and no problem with them now.
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