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Mitsubishi Montero & Montero SportThis sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.
Larry, thank you very much for your posts. I finally got my Montero sport running again. This was my first engine rebuild. I couldn’t have done it without you. No issues so far with 500 miles on the engine. Thanks again.
Larry, thank you very much for your posts. I finally got my Montero sport running again. This was my first engine rebuild. I couldn’t have done it without you. No issues so far with 500 miles on the engine. Thanks again.
Excellent! Glad my thread/posts helped you. I am no expert or professional by the way, just a typical gear head guy trying to get it done.
The plastic timing covers have a groove and a square type gasket/seal is inserted.
The gasket/seal on mine is hard, brittle, and largely gone.
Anyone know of a source for these?
I would like to put the gasket/seal back in to aid in keeping crap off the belt.
Putting installation of these covers on hold till I can find the gasket/seal.
Edit 5/12/16
Finally found a diagram and part numbers for the timing cover gaskets. Many individual gaskets each sold separately. Unfortunately, when checking with MitsubishiParts.com many of these are now discontinued, but you can buy new covers with gaskets installed (no thank you).
McMaster-Carr sells o-ring cord stock. I measured the grooves in the timing covers and they measure 4 mm. Surfing their catalog, I found Part Number 1216N7 which is a 4.5 mm square cord stock made from Buna-N which is rated for contact with petroleum products, temperature range from -25 to 212 F, and a Durometer of 70. Perfect! I ordered 10' as I measured that I would need about 6'. They do offer a Viton version with a much higher temperature limit but significantly more expensive. I paid $11.65 total ($4.70 for cord stock and $6.95 for shipping). McMaster-Carr
The cord stock fits snug in the groove due to the interference fit and conforms to the curves nicely. Took my time fitting it to the grooves and trimmed with a sharp razor. When done, I had slightly less than 4' left over, so the 10' purchase length was proper.
One more item done.
THANK YOU for this info. I just ordered some today. I was wondering what to put in there!
I started reading your thread last night. It's been very helpful to me. I'm not doing a full rebuild, but I'm into a valve job now and your attention to detail is proving to be a great resource!
BTW, I wanted to say Thanks to Larry for the hint on the timing gear gaskets. I've followed your advice and ordered bulk square gasket material from McMasterCarr. It worked perfectly!!! Excellent advice.
THANK YOU for this info. I just ordered some today. I was wondering what to put in there!
I started reading your thread last night. It's been very helpful to me. I'm not doing a full rebuild, but I'm into a valve job now and your attention to detail is proving to be a great resource!
Thanks again!
sjeff35 - Glad I could help! I've learned so much on the internet so this thread was my "pay back" if you will. Also, there is no way in hell I could remember all this so here it is for all to see, right or wrong.
BTW, I wanted to say Thanks to Larry for the hint on the timing gear gaskets. I've followed your advice and ordered bulk square gasket material from McMasterCarr. It worked perfectly!!! Excellent advice.
Thanks Hunter! Glad it worked for you as well and thus I now consider it "vetted"! I value your input greatly.
In my past life, I was a practicing mechanical engineer for 16+ years and worked in design of gizmo's, power plants, air craft carriers, subs, etc. Got fed up with that and ever since have been building houses for another 20+ years now.
The square cord stock in the one photo sparked the memories of past design projects and there it went. McMaster Carr has some neat stuff; not always cheap, but a very nice source or otherwise unobtanium materials.
I need to change the oil on the beast. It is overdue, too much going on and too little of my time. Will update soon
Larry, did you ever sort out the misfire you had or you are just living with it? Over the last year+ I had a random misfire occasionally show up. Troubleshooting ignition and fuel systems did not reveal any issues that would cause misfire, so it just kept coming and going... I'm now convinced that it was related to the oil leaking past the seals onto the valves and getting into combustion chamber. I've replaced my valve seals about three month ago (4k miles). No more misfires since that time.
Larry, did you ever sort out the misfire you had or you are just living with it? Over the last year+ I had a random misfire occasionally show up. Troubleshooting ignition and fuel systems did not reveal any issues that would cause misfire, so it just kept coming and going... I'm now convinced that it was related to the oil leaking past the seals onto the valves and getting into combustion chamber. I've replaced my valve seals about three month ago (4k miles). No more misfires since that time.
Thanks for checking in Hunter. No the cylinder 6 misfire is still there and I have just accepted it. No time to fool with it and it reliably gets daughter to/from work.
Engine now has 192,947 miles with 19,072 since the rebuild
Well, I finally changed the oil in the beast.
Was a bad guy and it was overdue. Supposed to change at 7500 mile intervals and I had 8,678, oh well. Too much going on.
Oil looked normal "blackish" for the interval. Very little sludge/fuzz on the magnetic drain plug. Not sure why, but I bought Castrol 5w30 Synthetic this time along with a Fram PH9688 filter. All prior oil changes have been normal dinosaur 5w30 oil. Guess eyesight going while shopping.
Drained the transmission pan as I've no clue when it was last serviced if ever. Someone was there prior as the corners on the drain plug had been rounded over by a hack mechanic. Fluid was nice reddish color with no off smell and no prior shifting issues. Used 4 quarts of genuine Mitsubishi SP-III and fully back to the mark when hot. Stuff is expensive at near $17/qt.
The radiator leak I think I had, I think now is really that the overflow tube was split and thus puking fluid on top of the radiator instead of filling the overflow tank. I could not understand why the overflow tank was always empty/low. Cut off the split end and added a hose clamp. Hose looks like it had a clamp originally, I guess I left it off during the engine R&R. Shall monitor and see.
Leaking some oil on the engine. My engine has a two part pan. The bolts for the sheet metal lower pan to the aluminum skirt portion were all tight (prior leak here). I was able to get about 1/4 turn on the bolts which attach the upper aluminum pan skirt to the block. Cleaned the whole bottom end with brake cleaner, so hopefully next inspection I can get a better look see as to where its coming from. Does not appear to be head gaskets or valve covers.
The check engine light still remains as an annoyance on the dash and I assume it still says Cylinder 6 misfire. I've done zero to chase that. Slight miss at idle but once off idle performance is fine.
I need to tighten the belt for the AC compressor as it squeals when you step on it.
Engine now has 192,947 miles with 19,072 since the rebuild. Hope many more. The rebuild journey seems so long ago....
12-19-2018, 10:21 PM
