See how it drives now that the ECU is reset

 

Thanks...do you happen to know the name of the hose or the nipple it connects to? (that sounds hilarious, doesn't it?)

Anyway, that will help me look for it in some salvage yards. There's no way in hell I'm gonna let some dealership charge me $50 for that thing.

 

OK. Haven't driven it since resetting the ECU, I hope it doesn't fall the **** apart tomorrow. lol I read somewhere that you really shouldn't do that...between reconnecting that loose plug, tightening the air filter, and resetting it, I really hope this is fixed.

 

hm. you could prolly just get the same type of tubing at a local parts store for a couple bucks if not less. that hose came with the intake, i actually had to cut it to fit right so it wouldn't be creased and bent. ill look up what it is later. late!!

 

OK, thanks...

 

Today I filled up from below E and drove just under 100 miles, more highway than city and shifting at about 3-4k RPM. I will be at half a tank within the next 10 miles or so. This was from above 'F'. So mileage is still pretty bad...you said the ECU reset will need about 200 miles to show real improvement?

 

Well.. 200 miles to get to where it should be. Hmmm its really hard to say what could be doing it.

Could be that crappy intake+filter
Could be that vacume line
Could be a bad o2 sensor
Bad injector? (loooong shot)

 

OK guys, I got a diagnostic run and here are the results:

DTC (Codes)

P1698
Manufacturer Control
Auxiliary Inputs
Auxiliary Outputs

P1899
Manufacturer Control
Transmission

P0171
System Too Learn
(Bank 1)


DTC Pending (Codes)

No faults detected.



What do you think? And how can I check to see if he disabled the check engine light, because it should've definitely been thrown, right?

 

What about a 3-step fuel injection cleaning? Think dirty fuel injectors could be causing or contributing to this?